The Konkan Kind – III

Various gods and goddesses are worshipped around Konkan region. Believers flock in from many states for blessings. I saw a few of these deities during my three-day trip. Hope you enjoyed the journey so far and love this last read in the series.

One friend was supposed to leave us after dinner but her thing at work got sorted and she could stay. I asked her to treat us all with ice cream. After a wonderful day at so many forts and then the beach and now I ice cream. ‘I was dancing of joy inside’ could definitely be an understatement!

We went to the place we were spending our night. I didn’t even keep my bag down as I got busy with a fur ball. And there were two of them, two furry cats! I got busy playing with them and in a while slept.

The room was small for us and heat was terrible. I got up after an hour’s nap, irritable and angry because of incomplete sleep. I asked a friend awake for a similar reason and we stepped out. The moon was there, calm and as if awaiting my arrival.

I realized there is no way out and I have to sleep in there and went to give it another try. The cats and other nuisance woke others sleeping by now. So five of us awake stepped out. Unable to sleep, unable to do anything, damn irritable, we decided to have a walk.

 

We walked, talked about music, shared random thoughts and stories and finally went in and got a few hours of sleep in that hot pot. Five of us turned an irritable night of restlessness into a memorable one where we talked, laughed and shared. Moments as such with people you travel adds to the glory of a trip.

After morning tea we left for Ratnadurg fort. We had been to this fort before, yet saw it in a different light this time. This is a must visit fort if you plan to land in Konkan anytime, the placement of it, the structure, the view, it is all a delight not to be missed!

Next, we saw the Velneshwar Temple. The Shiva idol is the prime attraction of this place, especially during the Mahashivratri celebrations. The pristine clean beach behind the temple is mesmerising but not open for tourists now, perhaps why it has managed to stay clean.

We now went to the famous Kalbhairav Temple, also known as Bahiri Temple. It is constructed by the Gujar family. This temple is known to have not only Hindu devotees but also Jain and Islam origin devotees.

After this, we quickly saw the Jogeshwari Temple, commonly called the Jugai Temple. This is a shrine of Shree Jugaidevi. The structure of this temple is beautiful and has a calm ambience for anyone to sit and connect to the superpowers.

We now headed to Ganpati Phule. This is a Ganesh Temple on the base of a small hill and has a beautiful beach in the front. I loved the various kinds of Ganesh idols on the structure of the temple.

 

We had a quick breakfast and then went to a fort finally. I was done with watching various deities. And Jaigadh proved to be love at first sight. The fort has a deep pit at the entrance (khandak) and the fortification walls still stand strong around the fort.

There are many structures still in good condition in the fort, including temples, wells and even a few rooms. Our timing I felt was perfect as the light’s romance with the structure made for many beautiful frames.

 

 

I felt very content after exploring this fort. Now, we took a jetty ride with our sumo in it. It was an amazing experience to be in sumo, then have the sumo in a jetty and then again riding the sumo to the next place planned, Vyadeshwar Temple.

This shrine is dedicated to Lord Shiva but has several other deities like Talkeshwar, Udaleshwar, and Balkeshwar. The idols of God Ganesh, God Vishnu, and God Surya are also there.

After this, we saw the Gopalgadh lighthouse and also learned from a person working there how it functions, what are its functions mainly etc. It was the first time I saw a lighthouse so up close, it was a beautiful learning experience.

We now headed to Goaplgadh, the gates were closed because apparently, this fort isn’t a public property anymore. We don’t go by the rules and figured our way in and the experience of this fort was fun, full of laughter and madness. Also known as Anjanvel, this fort was also part of the trade route at the time.

 

After such a big day, we were blessed with a kind stay at one of our friend’s house in Aare village. It was a beautiful night and I had one of the best sleep of the entire trip. On the ride to the house, I noticed a river and it could be heard from the house as well. I had to had to go there but it was dark

So, as planned, I got up early, woke my cousin and two friends. One decided to sleep and three of us headed out towards the river. We saw a land full of coconut palms. I danced around the trees as if in a dream and then we walked into the river.

We found a place, sat there for a while and in some time got joined by our sleepy friend. He found us and now four of us spent time talking and clicking with our feet in the river. For a while, we all were quiet, I could hear only the river, fluttering of the palm leaves and some birds and yes it felt like the Konkan kind of goodbye.

My heart sank as I walked back to the house. We noticed a big spider eat a grasshopper. We noticed another spider and stood and clicked photos in awe for nature. When we finally reached the house, we had our morning tea and breakfast and left for our bus to the station.

The stay was too emotional as I helped the lady cook. I do not step in the kitchen at home often, and the warmth received in a span of hours filled me with joy. The fact that the trip was about to end killed me more.

I was super quiet and sadly my face depicts what I feel and I am bad at hiding sorrow. I am blessed with great friends in life as the amazing playlist and care by a friend helped me not choke and bid Konkan gratitude filled goodbye with a smile.

We had lunch and got on the train and managed to get comfortable seats. This train journey back home will be marked as the most epic fun journey I have ever had. The jokes, the laughter, the games, the talks of the trip, each person present made me feel so blessed.

This was my first ever big trip of four days in total with my trekker group and I am so glad it was Konkan Kind. I built stronger bonds with people, learned about many new places and experienced Konkan truly. Blessed with the best people to trek and trip with is something I will brag for as long as I shall live!

(I couldn’t add in detailed information about the places I visited but have managed to put all the links to sites I took the information in a word file. If you wish to check this bibliography along with the entire itinerary, click here!)

The Konkan Kind – II

Konkan plain stretches approximately 530km and is almost 45-76km in width. I experienced only a tiny bit of the mighty Konkan and here is the second post in my series, hope you enjoy the read.

After a good sleep, we were all up on time and headed to explore Vijaydurg fort by 6:15am. As we reached the fort, we witnessed the Konkan kind of good morning. We saw the sun, rise above the horizon with its reflection flowing and reaching us. I clicked a few pictures and then stood still to embrace the moment.

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Picture Credits – Sanish

The moment pumped me so much, I was overjoyed. And so the consequence had to happen. I couldn’t take my eyes off the mesmerizing sea and structure of the place and didn’t see a hole and got my right leg stuck in it.

There was terrible pain from the bone near the feet up till the knee. I couldn’t exactly figure where I was hit as it pained from the knee till my feet. I had a good friend beside me who witnessed my fall who asked me to check but I refused and kept walking.

I didn’t wish to miss out on exploring the most magnificent sea fort. I didn’t want the group to have any delay because of my stupid fall either. I needed water badly to gulp in my tears, but sadly we had forgotten to fill our bottles that morning.

Vijaydurg is a good place if you get hurt and wish to divert your mind. There is so much to know about. The older name being ‘Gheria’, this fort is among the only two forts where Shivaji personally hoisted the saffron flag, other being Torana.

It was a naval dock of the time and the entire construction of the fort is an architectural marvel, a good place for students of architecture and history. The fort is also known to be the place where French scientist, Jhonson took readings to detect that helium exists as one of the prime elements of the Sun.

In total awe for the fort we left and took bags from our rooms to catch the 9:15am bus to Jaitapur. As we were getting out bags, I checked my leg and it looked terrible. I gulped the fear of how I’ll deal with it and went down for the quick breakfast before we left.

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I sat alone on the bus and looked outside the window. I spotted a few birds and saw many beautiful houses. I noticed a completely dry banyan tree which still, stood strong. It was as if telling me to ignore the pain in my leg and be strong for the day ahead.

We got down at Jaitapur hopped into the Sumo we had hired. It took us first to Yashwantgadh, a fort we missed the last time we had come to Ratnagiri. This fort was used for trade along with Ambolgadh.

The fort is divided into two parts, the plateau and the creek. The doorway has a Ganesh idol and lotus flowers carved. The fort has two storerooms. Patki family stays inside the fort premises and they even have a well outside their house.

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Three of us walking towards the entrance that has the Ganesh idol and the flower. Picture Credits – Sanish

On our way to the next place in mind, our tyre got punctured. One of the screws of the tyre was stuck, we oiled and tried everything, but the screw refused to move. After around half an hour with a fellow Sumo driver’s help, we got it fixed and began our journey again.

This half-hour was like a reality check. It gave a glimpse of all that had happened during the first time and how we sailed through it. It was time to thank some superpowers who helped us not have too much delay in the day and we got down at the beautiful Kanakaditya Temple.

It is a famous place for devotees of Sri Kanakaditya (name of Sun God). The five-day celebration of Ratha-Saptami receives many devotees from all parts of the country every year. The kirtans, pravachans and aarti done during the festival is quite an attraction.

Now we were on our way to Purnagadh when we decided to quickly visit the Kasheli point. The view from the top was breathtaking and I couldn’t wait to run down the steps to the point and see the heavenly scene.

I ran the first few steps and what a big mistake that was! My leg began to hurt so bad I thought it will rip off. The sound of the waves hitting the shore was so loud, it was as if my leg shouting out to me and please just stop and stand in one place.

No, I didn’t do that, slowly I walked down the steps to the spot. The shades of blue of the sea, the blurring of the horizon, the sound of the waves, the serenity of moment made my soul so happy, I could have actually danced! That would be asking too much from my leg so I just stood there drooling over the beauty of the place.

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How’s the pain in your leg? ‘I can’t feel the pain with such a pretty picture painted around me, it is all too dreamy to feel anything.’

Then, we reached Purnagadh, a small fort which can be viewed in one sight. It had a Hanumanji’s deity at the entrance. Some evidence suggests it was built by Shivaji Maharaj while some suggest it was built by Sakhoji Angre, son of Kanhoji Angre.

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Picture Credits – Amol

Now we headed to Thiba Palace, a lesser known place. It is a fine architecture and clearly gives a feel of old British era. Thiba hailed from Burma and one can dig into the history of his interesting life which made the existence of this marvellous palace possible in Konkan region.

My attention yet again was driven to something else, a tree. After exploring and knowing about the Thiba Palace, I climbed a tree outside the palace. It was so pretty, I couldn’t control climbing it. I could feel the happy hormones dancing in me to the tunes of ‘Sawar Loon’ that I sang.

Now, we headed to Bhatye beach. We reached in time before the sunset. I and a friend kept our shoes in the vehicle and ran to the sea. The feeling of the first wave kissing my leg is something I can’t put to words.

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Picture Credits – Amol

I and my friend walked to the calmer, fewer people end of the beach and spent time playing and doing everything that came to our mind. We observed the sun, its reflection, and the clouds on the opposite side, the waves, and the horizon. There wasn’t a single cell in our body that wasn’t overjoyed.

After a while, we walked back to our group and had fun with them. In some time we left to figure out our stay for the night. Life balances everything since the day had made me so happy, it was time for the night to show its darkest shade.

The Konkan Kind – I

Konkan is the coastal plain region between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats of Maharashtra. It is home to many beautiful beaches, forts and temples. This is the first post in the series of my experience of the Kind Konkan. I hope you enjoy the read and perhaps learn something new.

I had yet again chosen to travel over something else more important. I had an extreme guilt of being selfish but I knew my decision wasn’t wrong and kind Konkan did prove me right!

As planned, we took Mangalore Express train from Thane station at 10:30pm. We were hoping to at least get on the train, but we not only got in, but we also got seats. The place wasn’t enough to get some sleep yet somehow we managed to relax and reached Kankavli station at 7:10am.

Eight of us freshened up and started walking towards the bus stop. We managed to have tea before we stepped in the bus to Ramgadh. Peeping through the window I saw the landscape of small houses and fields touching the horizon and in minutes we reached our first fort.

Ramgadh fort has the most unique Ganesh idol with a wobbly trunk and asuras at the base. There are seven tofs kept in line with a lot of grass and trees around it, obviously making a beautiful frame.

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Picture Credits – Amol

This intriguing fort kept us exploring it for more time than planned and we missed our bus to Achra from where we would head further to Sindhudurg. Soon, we hopped into a tumtum to Achra.

I and my friend sat behind and couldn’t stop smiling the entire ride. It was like living our ‘khwabon k parindey’ moment. The road had trees on either side, the clouds in the sky forming various shapes, the warm smiles of people in intervals, the leaves on the road following us for a while and the calm breeze soothing our souls.

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Luckily, we managed to get this tumtum to ride directly to Sindhudurg. We kept our luggage outside and headed to our boat ride to the fort. Sindhudurg is a 16th-century architectural marvel made possible by the great Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj.

The entrance to the fort is hidden like that of the other sea forts built at the time. The purpose was for the enemy to never find it. Only locals can point the correct entry, no tourist can locate it.

Yes, the fort has a beautiful structure and amazing history but my attention was totally driven to the sea. The waves kept thrashing the fort walls, the sound of which was so serene I got lost in my own world.

The mighty sea waves many time hit the fort walls so high the water fell inside. The waves managed to fall on a few of us as we walked past the entire fort wall churning excitement among all of us the entire time.

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Picture Credits – Sanish

If the waves could climb the fort walls and reach us, I kept thinking of all the things even I can do and think are impossible. Like the endless efforts of the waves, even I can and I should keep giving my all for my masters and hope to achieve what I think I can.

After a thoughtful walk around this historical fort, it was time to leave. By now, the heat and hunger both were unbearable. As we returned from the fort, we had a kala-khatta gola and headed straight for lunch. The old lady serving us food reminded me of grandma so much, it made me cry within.

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Selfie Credits – Sanish

As usual, instead of being low about missing grandma, I acted weird and made all around me believe I was annoyed with her being so much keen on me eating. She kept looking at my plate, conversing to me about food and other things, just like grandma.

I wish I had courage enough to hug her and say thank you, you made my day. Her kindness made my soul smile and heart cry. It definitely felt like grandma had come down to say hello, please take care and eat well one last time.

We had some time before our bus to Vijaydurg and we had a walk around. I crossed the lunch place twice, thinking if I should go in and thank the old lady, but I couldn’t. I think I need to get more emotionally stronger for that.

We boarded the bus and saw one of the most beautiful sunsets. The cool breeze helped me have a nap despite the ride being extremely bumpy and scary. I think the BEST drivers should be given special rewards and recognition for their driving stints. They are really underrated F1 drivers.

It was dark when we got down near Vijaydurg fort. A visarjan was going to happen soon and a procession was approaching towards us. The dhol was so amazing, I began dancing in reflex. Not for long but we all did a little jig of our own for a few minutes. It felt odd yet refreshing to dance at a distance from a procession.

We attended the visarjan aarti and I witnessed my first ever visarjan. I don’t have feelings about what I saw, kind of blank about the whole festival itself, I have no clarity of thought on the festival as it is just my second year of actually understanding it, I’ll surely write more on it when I know and experience more about it.

Soon after that, we finished our dinner and then the moon appeared above the sea. Deep pink, calm and as if smiling and welcoming me for a conversation. I sat near the edge of the sea and saw the moon reflect over the sea.

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Picture Credits – Sanish

The waves hitting the rocks at the shore felt like the moon was responding to my questions. I clicked a few pictures and hummed a few songs. I was lost in the divine beauty of this moment after that.

My mind had zero tabs open, perhaps still somewhere some music player was on in low volume but nothing more. For a few minutes it was just me and the moon, its reflection and the sound of the waves at the shore, it was a soulful conversation with the moon.

I saw the moon rise above and observed the change in its reflection pattern. After spending these moments of peace it was time to head to our rooms and have enough rest for the next day. We headed back, played cards for a while and slept.

I slept with a big smile on my face. I thanked the superpowers for a beautiful day where I saw the power of the mighty waves in the start and for the beautiful end with the moon and everything serene that occurred in between. I knew somewhere within, that this was just a start and there was more madness in store in the coming few days.

One dare, done!

When we reached Bekare waterfall rappelling site, I saw the water and it called me towards it. I went and spent some time alone while the rappelling set up was being done. As always, I and the flowing water had a conversation.

Hours back on my bed at home I wasn’t even thinking to be here and promised mom to not come. The reason being my health. I had terrible weakness and couldn’t even sit for dinner.

But, I knew deep within me, there will be water around and I need not fear. I got up in the morning and left. The journey to the place was fine. The little climb to the waterfall which otherwise wouldn’t affect me drained me so much, I couldn’t stand.

As we reached, I sat near the water, conversed for a while and all my energy was somehow regained. I didn’t think much and just went to rappel down.

My stomach was aching out of hunger and what not. My back was telling me please lie down, don’t do this. But, there was water below my feet, I could trust it, I could trust the stones. I had people cheering for me too.

I did it. When I got down, I was trembling. All my energy had got down. I had nothing left in me, but the joy of going beyond my physical limits. The joy poured out of my eyes for a while. I couldn’t stop.

After I calmed down, a random boy who also rappelled down around the same time, approached me. He didn’t know me, but he looked at me and smiled.

“You have just experienced the epitome of happiness, which comes out of your eyes. There is nothing more beautiful than this.” He said

Little later, I and my cousin were sitting and recording footage of others in the group rappelling down. When one of the members who set the whole thing came,

‘Do you guys wish to do it again?’

‘Yes sure’ I and my cousin echoed

Why the hell did you say that? My mind kept abusing me for the next few minutes. It will take a toll on your health, don’t do it. Why is it necessary to become a hero? Did it once, now chill, will you? I ignored the crap my mind gave me and I went for it.

The start was good as it was a proper rappel patch which I am good at and I can do. I knew I was approaching the curve now and had to go right a bit, but the water flowing was so hard I slipped and went into the cave.

It felt quiet and calm, the sound of flowing water adding to the bliss. It was like a cold reassuring hug amidst the little panic of being stuck.

I stood there, cleaned my eye, figured the way and rappelled down. My feet were trembling, I kept slipping the easiest part towards the end, that’s what loss of confidence can do, but, I made it down. All the chaos around silenced for a minute. As I walked out of the water, I kept telling myself, yes you managed to do it twice.

I didn’t cry this time. It was more than happiness, it was a state of bliss. The moment I had in that little cave, where only I could stand the way I did.

On the way back, which drained me in the start, I jumped with joy. Quite literally, as I splashed all puddles and walked through a stream patch on the way.

What I did could have ended me in a big trouble. I could get severely sick. But, it was a leap of faith I took, trusting my physical abilities or more like challenging it. For the first time, the tagline of my blog came to life – “All that you wish to do is possible if you push yourself to do it”

Please do not try things that can cause you physical stress. But, maybe dare to do what your mind says you can’t. Do share your experience of doing so with me on Insta, @nisha_navgire!

River Baby

In the recent past, I have opened up with all possible human emotions to the dear river.

I have whined about life, wept about it, I have laughed and danced around it, I have cried out of sheer joy and spoken about so many emotions I didn’t know existed within me.

I have walked through many mountains and forests. I have seen many various forms of nature. I wondered, why, why is it that I connect to the river then?

The Flow

Rivers have a constant flow. This is the prime attraction and learning from a river. To keep going, no matter what.

I am bad with letting go of things, people, and emotions. I take everything too seriously and when it is time to let go of something, I just can’t. Sometimes, I pile up so much of crap in me which shouldn’t have bothered me at the first place that it makes me very uncomfortable.

The moment I am alone near a river, I think of all the things I should let go of. A bad relation, a stupid fight, an awful day, a big mistake, anything that is making me cringe within. I spend the last moments with this thoughts and emotions and finally let go of them.

The Rocks

Have you noticed the rocks around a river? Have you seen how the water cuts through these rocks? Have you seen the water flow between these rocks especially near a waterfall?

Every time I notice this, I have a strong motivation to do something. The power that the water has to be able to shape rocks around makes me believe that even I can do something, write something thought provoking enough to mold some minds for the better. I feel powerful.

There is a stark difference in the rocks that lay under the water for long and the rocks that never. The rocks underwater are always soft, often known as pebbles. Rocks otherwise are sharp and can even give a good wound.

The pebbles and sharp rocks according to my understanding are people who either wish to know perspectives or stay rigid with their own. The pebble kind of people are ready to dive deep and stay there to know you, know your perspective. The sharp rock kind of people are just the opposite. But the catch here is to be like the river and flow through all these people without letting any affect your pace of flow.

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One of the poems, I wrote on my bond with the river

The Life

Water is life is a known fact. We all take so much from the rivers, do we ever consider what its life is like?

A river begins on some mountain-top, flows through a forest perhaps and reaches some other water body in the plains. It tries to flow through everything that it faces to reach a destination it isn’t even aware of. It knows only one thing that it can’t stay where it is.

As it is set on this journey without a destination in mind, it feeds a few creatures and humans on the way, it dances and has fun with the big rocks. It lives free and with its happy sound spreads joy all over.

Unfortunately, the joyous journey becomes a horror one when we do our best to kill this joy. The plastic trash around rivers, cutting down of trees and much more. We know about it, we are all guilty in one way or other.

What if rivers cease to exist? What if there is no single river left who has a happy journey? This thought makes me cringe. Every time I see a dead river with trash all over, I mourn. I will hopefully work on this cause. I believe that the life-giving river that teaches me much more should last forever.

This post is a glimpse of why I am a River Baby and a few ways in which I connect to rivers. There is much more I’ll learn from a river. What are your thoughts? DM me for a conversation on Insta @nisha_navgire

5 Travel Essentials

There can be many essentials to carry when traveling but the following are a pure no-no. If you ever went on a trip and didn’t enjoy, you probably need to take notes. There are my five travel essentials I tick mark surely before I leave.

1 No Guilt

There can be a whole big list of trips I have had with the guilt of missing something important. A friend’s birthday, family occasion, some interview and what not. Throughout these many guilt trips, I have had the evident company of sorrow with a toss of weird emotional state.

Back when I began trekking and having big vacations, I was in college and would only have weekends to spend time doing something else. And so there would be some family gatherings or a night out at a friend’s place or something planned for the weekend.

It was still manageable back then as I would meet these important people during the week and make up for not being there for the weekend and traveling instead. But now that all work, missing a weekend gathering gives a bigger guilt.

After ruining a few trips, I added this to my checklist before I leave. I spoke with two of closest friends and told them why traveling is important for me. They have a better backstory of my life and they got it. It gets difficult, but now they always know when I am heading out and all our night outs and meets are planned way ahead.

2 No Emotional Baggage

How are guilt and emotional baggage different? Well, here I mean, if there is something is bothering you real bad, it is sucking the life out of you, it can be anything, big or small, don’t let it be in the way of you having fun on a trip, instead use the trip as a way to let go of it and feel lighter.

I have a habit of overthinking and it sucks. I still remember years back, I had a small argument with a very close friend before I left for a trip and I didn’t enjoy the day at all. It was so bad I couldn’t stop whining about the fight to a few I was traveling with.

I realized instead of being there and enjoying with people I was with, I spread gloomy vibes. Only if I could go back and change that day, and be a better person, I would. But hey, that day gave me this pointer. If you are an emotional fool like me, make sure you don’t miss ticking this off.

3 No Responsibility

This is one a little more subjective than the ones above. I am a responsible head otherwise. I have taken charge of things, people and situations and have done well. But, when I travel, I love to be with myself.

It is purely my time, where I get all my thoughts out and just be me. Be amidst nature and feel the love around without a single thought about the real world back home.

Last week I had been to Gorakhgadh and I trekked it with an eleven-year-old girl. It was her first ever trek. I saw the entire fort through her eyes, her observations, her happiness, her care and concern for others, her idea of fun and laughter. It was beautiful.

But, the entire climb up and down with her, I was worried. For this trip, she was my kiddo, she was my responsibility. It was different and difficult. I am not good with kids in general who are big enough to speak. I get very awkward, shy, or I don’t know why very conscious. But this kiddo was different.

Among the many things I learned from her, I surely figured that I can’t travel with someone’s responsibility. It was a fun trip with her but it isn’t something I can do often. I can do such a trip once in a while but not too often.

4 No Health Issue

This is the most important one and you should definitely add this to your checklist. I have traveled with a cough cold and fever and managed. But, always listen to your body, it does tell you if you can or cannot do something.

Do not mix this with the feeling of fear. Feeling sick out of fear is normal, but if there is something severe, just don’t go. Oh, yes, I have traveled sick and that trip is one of the worst I ever had.

I just had to travel and so I head out. But that day I realized when you are sick you slow down the entire group. You aren’t able to enjoy much and you kind of spoil it for others too.

I don’t even let someone carry my bag even if it is extremely heavy and the climb extremely difficult. If I am not able to carry one bag, how would someone carry two? Don’t let your health issue or any sort of physical trouble spoil someone’s fun. Stay back home and if you head out, give it all you got.

5 No Virtual Presence

I have made it a habit for my mom now that on one-day trips I call her only once when I began my journey back home and on two-day trips, I call her twice. On bigger trips, I call her once in two days. This is because of a simple rule I follow that is to use my phone only to click pictures, take videos and call mom once.

My phone is full time on airplane mode to save battery too as I still own an old Moto phone. If you have read my previous travel posts and loved how I connect to nature and people around, add this to your checklist and make sure to do it. This will help you be more present in the place you are more than just physically.

There is not a single trip I had where I haven’t followed this rule since my first ever trek. And the results have been beautiful. If not always, try this on your next travel, do let me know how it works for you.

These are five travel essentials I check before I head out. It may or may not work for you as they are purely subjective to my travel experiences but hey, if you try any of these, or do follow any, I would love to know your story.

 

 

 

Siddhagadh Photo Story

After summers, the first monsoon trek is the most awaited thing. It wasn’t even a week I was back from Spiti and I was going back to the mountains, I was excited. To my delight, we were going to have a bike ride to the base village of Siddhagadh. I couldn’t be happier, as I believe monsoon and bike rides are just made for each other!

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An epiphyte is when a plant grows on another tree or plant. We noticed this tree with two different kinds of leaves on our way and it could be an epiphyte.

One can go Siddhagadh via Narivalli village and from there it is the highest fort climb in Maharashtra. But we took another way through Jamburdhe village which cuts around an hour’s climb.

 

 

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We parked our vehicles and just before we began to walk, we noticed this old well. Such sources of water on and around the forts in Maharashtra is common. My eyes were pleased to see some purple flowers adding to the green colour scheme around. For the first time, I saw houses with a block that had the year written on it. My friends said it is the year these houses were made but I am not sure of this.

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As we were walking we found this two things. The one on the left is microbial in origin. It could be slimy fungal species or a slime layer produced by some bacterial species. The one on the right is a common mushroom one can find on monsoon treks in the Shyadris.

 

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We reached the caves. We took pictures and left. Later, we noticed the Ganpati on the bottom right corner of this image.

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There are a few difficult rock patches and if you are new to Sahyadris, kindly be more careful. I and a new friend who also searched the slimy bacteria for me were having fun as we climbed together.

 

 

There is a ‘nandi’ and ‘shivling’ at the top of the fort. But they weren’t placed together as they should be as seen in temples. We were waiting for a few and it began to rain heavily with strong breeze too. I was so happy, I sang and danced until all arrived.

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After exploring the fort, we took a different way down and came across a beautiful old door. We walked past it and reached a temple. It had ‘shivlings’ and ‘nandis’ found around the place kept together. There was also a broken ‘tof’ kept ourside the temple.

There were also this stone structures called ‘virghals’ kept around the temple. These structures are found around many forts in Maharashtra. They depict the history of the maker of the fort.

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Saw this colourful leaves just before we reached back to our vehicles.

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The walk down got more slippery but it was worth it. We had some hot tea before we began our ride back home. I can surely count this trek as one of my favourite monsoon trek experiences.

My Spiti Saga – IV

There are two ways to reach Spiti Valley. One is through Manali crossing Lahual before reaching Spiti from Kumzum Pass (15,059 ft). This route gets cut off during winters. The southern route from Kinnaur from Shimla is an all-season route. We took the southern route to reach and left Spiti Valley by crossing Kumzum Pass. 

A headache in the mountains means a symptom of altitude sickness. When I got out of my bed I was so relieved to know my headache was gone. Do read about altitude sickness before you head to the mountains, prevention is always better than cure!

As planned we ate breakfast and reached Koumik. It is the highest village with a motorable road in Asia and is at a height of 15,027 feet above sea level. The land is considered barren for cultivation. And like many parts of Ladakh, it is cut off completely from the rest of the country during winters.

 

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We entered the Lundap Tsemo Gompa Monastery, famous for being the highest motorable monastery in the world. The 14th-century monastery has a fortified castle made of slanted mud walls, representing the murals, scriptures, and arts. This Monastery has ‘Matrey Buddha’ or ‘the future Buddha’ and believed to be the one who looks after the village.

I was observing the place is awe when Sir mentioned that Koumik village has severe water struggles. He gave us time to take pictures of the place and spend time in the village. When I stepped out, I saw a local drinking water from a stream and I approached him.

I drank water with him and initiated a conversation. He told me that for two years they have a ‘kull’ (like a dam) that has reduced their water problems. And the information about land being barren turned out to be false as he said they do cultivate peas, coriander among a few leafy vegetables too. They mostly cultivate it for their homes but sell the rest in Hikkim, a village 5km from Koumik.

According to the man I conversed with not water but a hospital is a bigger concern. There is only a dispensary that they have access to which is also in Hikkim. On the brighter side, I was happy to see a school at such a height. This proved the importance that people have for education here.

 

Now we left for Hikkim, this place is known for it has the world’s highest post office. No other place at such a height has a post office! Sir being Sir had carried postcards for all of us and everyone sent postcards.

I like to write but it is a task to write to someone and give it to them. I have books filled with thank you letters, birthday letters, random poems I have written for people and never given. So obviously, I wasn’t thinking I’ll be sending postcards.

But something in me challenged me. I wrote and sent four postcards from Hikkim. I was so emotional on the ride back from Hikkim because I couldn’t believe I did it. A part of me was hoping that the postcards don’t reach. A part of me was dying to know when it reaches!

With such mixed feelings, I got down at the next stop. It looked like a beautiful patch of green land with mountains at the back. It was a fossil bed. Sir asked us to find fossils. I couldn’t but a few in our group did find fossils. This fossil bed is little away from Hikkim on the way to Kaza near a stream.

After lunch, we left for Manali, a long bus journey from Kaza. I decided not to sleep and watch the change in terrain like I had done on the ride from Kalka to Sangla. I was done with singing, but as I looked at the mountains and streams pass by, my mind couldn’t stop playing something.

After crossing the beautiful Kumzum Pass, we reached Baatal. We were now to face the most difficult road patch according to Raju, our beloved driver. He was so scared that it was evident on his face. But we managed to cross it and do so before it got dark.

It was dusk but someone was out to say hi. It was a big full moon smiling at us between the big mountains. It looked grand and gorgeous! The smile became brighter as I saw the sky become darker. This transition from dusk to dark was the most enchanting one I ever saw!

We stopped for a pee break after which people in bus asked me to sit ahead, next to the driver. I couldn’t have asked for more. The moonlight reflecting off the ice made the ride sparkly! I took videos for a few people and we sang some beautiful songs.

The sparkling road, the smiling moon, some breeze and my mind singing romantic songs for the moon, I couldn’t have asked for a better way to cross the Rohtang pass!

We reached Manali late in the evening, had some dinner and slept. Next day we spent some good time in Van Vihar forest and also visited the famous Hadimba temple. We saw the Nagar Castle and also Roerich’s museum. After lunch, we headed to our meet with Dr. Vaji Varghese at his place.

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Mesmerizing pine trees of Van Vihar forest

He has worked with many people around Spiti Valley for various illnesses and has tremendous experience working in Manali from the time he came here in 1979. He showed us pictures he clicked of people and places as he traveled. We saw some jaw-dropping pictures of Zanskar Valley and more likely, next May that is where we will head!

Sir gave us the night to explore eateries around Manali and be back by 9pm to the stay. We had some good dinner and wine and got back to the stay just in time. The rest of the night was spent well laughing, joking and making the time together worthwhile.

The next day we left for Jibi. We reached in the night, had some delicious dinner and slept. I attempted to talk to people now. This is how my mind is, usually quiet and loves to be away from people, but when the trip is going to end, like a reflex, blabbers with everyone around!

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Early morning we left for the waterfall. The walk to this waterfall is one of the most serene walks I have had during this entire trip with dark, lush green trees around. I felt like walking into the soul of a forest and the serene look of the waterfall felt like reaching the heart of it!

After spending some calm time we came back and left for Chehni Kothi. It is believed that Chehni Kothi was built in the 17th century by Kind Dhadu therefore also referred to as Dhahiya Kothi at times. The tower is assumed to be used as both temple and a watch-tower.

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The architecture of Chehni Kothi is a special technique known as Kath-Khuni where blocks of stone and wood are placed alternatively to create a strong earthquake-proof structure. This sort of architecture even the Nagar Castle had and also some structures seen at Chitkul.

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After lunch, we went to Bahu Temple. This temple is in the middle of a beautiful pine forest. It is famous for it has an offering place where there is a lot of iron offerings done by people. There are wheels, trishuls, cookers etc found as offerings.

On the way back it started to rain. It was such an amazing feeling, amidst tall pine trees rain trying to find its way and kissing me. I felt so loved on the way back, I couldn’t help but smile all the way through.

We had some dinner and slept. I talked to a few people for a while before I dozed off. Next day Sir took us to the waterfall again. It was the last thing after which we left for Kalka. Yes, it was going to be a goodbye mountains moment and I wasn’t really prepared.

We got up and we reached the waterfall, and Sir asked us to do our own thing, to bid goodbye our own way. I looked at the waterfall for a while, after which I started following the stream down.

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It is so easy for me to open up to flowing water. I talked about the entire trip, about everything good and bad, and about the challenges that lay ahead once I am back. This time, I didn’t cry, this time I smiled. I was happy and content with a cherishing experience and I promised to stay happy once back home.

We left for Kalka later that day. We reached by evening, had dinner and slept. Next day morning we took the train back to Bombay. This time the train journey wasn’t weird. I had managed to build some good bonds with people. I surely had many moments to cherish again and again with people and also the places. Blessed is the word I truly felt as the overall vibe of the trip.

My Spiti Saga – III

Spiti Valley was ruled by Sen Kings. In the 7th century was annexed by the kingdom of Ladakh and in the 10th century was given to one of the three sons of the King of Ladakh. Hence, the living of Spiti is similar to that in Ladakh. This is the third post in my series and I hope you enjoy the read!

I got up and got ready. Before we left our room with luggage, I took a picture of the view from our room. In my head, bid goodbye to Tabo and headed to the bus with my bags. After loading all our bags, we had breakfast, took some packed lunch and left for Mane Village. We began our trek to Mane as soon as we reached the village.

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Me: Goodbye Tabo!
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Tabo: here, take this flower as a souvenir.

In the start, the terrain was similar to that of Lari but later land became much more firm for a proper grip. The walk became a struggle for a few people and Anish Dada came to the rescue. He asked the few people who were finding it difficult, to walk ahead. Everyone was instructed to follow them. He made sure they walked at their pace, took enough rest and didn’t give up even if they felt like.

He didn’t ask of me anything, but I felt the need to help him. I tried that there is no big gap developed in the middle from the people ahead and Sir at the back. I walked with the last person and made sure there was not a real big gap anytime throughout the walk and that all walked almost together.

As I did so, I figured I wasn’t walking at my pace. I was walking very slowly to match up with whoever was being left behind. This made me more tired but I saw Anish Dada ahead doing the same and I kept walking.

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Anish Dada at Mane Lake

I love climbing mountains, and here we were going to do nothing but just climb mountains the entire day. I was overjoyed by the scenic beauty around, though I wasn’t at my walking pace, I was in my happy place!

I missed my usual dance partner but it was time I find a new one and I did. I did London Thumakda twice with her, once my steps, later her steps. I think we did one for the camera as well. I am surprised how I always manage to bully at least one person to dance with me.

Dancing alone couldn’t release my happy hormones, I had to pour it out and so I began to sing. I changed my playlist depending on the level of struggle of the person I was walking with.

We reached Mane Lake. It was dry land. According to our guide, this time of the year, it would have water years back. Sir always says that ‘you don’t realize climate change and global warming until you see it’ and this is extremely true. My heart sank to stand on this dry patch of land, longing to be a lake.

However, I jotted some thoughts and then joined the celebrations of the reaching the lake. We danced. We clicked pictures and had a lot of fun. I realized I was so truly happy with the people I was with!

All the dancing, taking different pictures had drained all of us. And now when it was time to walk down, I sensed that it will get difficult, for me and for the group as well. So I got a playlist ready in my mind, some sweets in my pocket, all set for the task down.

However, the climb down turned out to be climbing a few more mountains to reach Mane village. Now the gaps started getting bigger and maintaining them became tougher. I could manage only a few at a time and felt bad I couldn’t push myself more to lessen the gaps in the middle.

Somehow with a lot of efforts, we reached the village. I heard Sir say that the group did well. I looked at Anish Dada and felt so proud. He took charge and all of us managed to do the trek well. One person got altitude sickness and a few others were broken mentally. I saw it yet felt proud as no one gave up or cribbed, and they were all still saying that it was all worth it.

We ate and took good rest that day. We packed our bags and left for Dhankar Lake next day. The trek was kept optional as a few were sick. However, maximum people did turn up for the trek.

As we started the climb for Dhankar, I saw a girl lead. When I looked closely I figured she was one of the climbers struggling yesterday. I felt inspired and decided to walk with her. After conversations, I figured it is the love for mountains that has let her overcome the fear of climbing one.

I was so happy looking at her personal growth in a day I sang for her. I asked if she was okay with my singing, she said she found it soothing and that’s how we both reached Dhankar Lake. Some conversations, some singing, some observations of birds and the environment, what more for a happy climb!

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We spent some time around the lake and left. As we walked down I had fun with a few friends and then decided to walk at my pace. I reached down and saw my climber friend down already at the Dhankar Monastery waiting for the rest. I told her that she really did well. That from struggling yesterday to ace the climb as well as descend today was commendable!

I saw that people were yet to come and Sir would take time to reach too. Whenever there is some time in hand, ‘let’s talk to locals’ is the siren that plays in my head. So I went in search of people willing to talk. I came across a group of ladies working on lamps.

I asked if I could join in to help and they smiled. I then enquired if the lamps were for a special occasion or were it their daily routine. ‘It is Budha’s birthday tomorrow. We have been cleaning the Monastery for months and now preparing for the big pooja tomorrow.’ I helped to put oil in the lamps and do the twigs too.

They were all from Dhankar village and they get together every time for such occasions and do the preparations together as a village. Kids and youngsters join in later and do the ‘mandaps’ for serving food. As I took the lamps inside the Monastery, I saw the monk and said Juley!

He greeted back and I asked him about the big pooja the next day and specialty of it. He said they celebrate Buddha’s birthday every year. It involves the participation of the entire village, some prayers, chanting and some feast for all at the end. I thanked him and came out.

In a while, we all left for Ki Monastery. Halfway through we got permission from Sir and sat on the top of the bus. There was Spiti River on the side, curvy road leading to Ki  Monastery in sight, breeze kissing my face and caressing my hair. I felt free, I felt happy, I felt blessed, I felt all of this and more on the crazy ride to the Monastery.

Ki Monastery looks beautiful and the view from the top is exceptional. A monk showed us around the Monastery. He showed us ancient paintings and the place where ancient scriptures were kept. We weren’t allowed to click pictures but we stood in the room where Dalai Lama stayed and which as per this monk hasn’t been much disturbed after he left.

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From Ki, now we left for Chicham Bridge. This bridge was built last year. It now connects the Chicham village to of Spiti. Earlier people would have to cross the steep valley to meet their needs. The height of this bridge is 150mtr. The view from this bridge was beautiful, we didn’t have time but someday I’ll go to Chicham village and know some stories.

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However, my thirst to know locals was full filled as we reached Kibber and Sir gave us time to explore. I greeted many people and talked to a few. There were two ladies who had been to Pune, Mumbai and didn’t like it there. They couldn’t handle the urban noise.

One monk who had accompanied them even fell sick and they came back. One of them said that there are people from the village who have gone to cities and even abroad and are making a good living but she would love to live and die here in her small yet peaceful living in Kibber.

After a delightful conversation, we left for Kaza. We ate and had a good sleep. The lights in my room were too low and didn’t suit my eyes. I had a terrible headache and just slept with a hope to be not sick in the morning

 

My Spiti Saga – II

Historically, Spiti Valley has been a border area, even the name in Tibetian means ‘the middle land’, basically land between India and Tibet. Spiti has similar topography to that of Tibetian Autonomous Region and Ladakh.
I hope you enjoy this second post in my series on Spiti & get to learn more about the place.

After a healthy breakfast and packed lunch, we left for Lari Caves. At these caves primarily monks meditated. Inside the caves, there are stupas of monks who meditated here. There is also an idol for the safety of these stupas.

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As we reached the base of the Caves, our guide, Durgen said ‘The climb might not be easy but let us try to enjoy it, together’ He had my heart at that moment. The climb was not easy as Durgen had mentioned, as the terrain was loose, with fine rocks and barely a path to walk on. But there was distant sound of the stream and breathtaking landscape that kept me going.

Few minutes in the walk and there was a difficult patch to cross. The path was narrow and one wrong step would mean a good fall. I crossed and few did too, I turned back and saw people struggling. I went back to help.

One person’s fear spread to the rest of the group and a few of us helped them all to walk through. But my big friend Rejo got stuck. I went to help him but he slipped. The path got lost and fine rocks started rolling, looking like a landslide. He glided down almost and luckily caught hold on a pipe. One of us helped him come up and walk it through. Now there was no path to walk on and I saw Sir approaching.

Sir tried but he got stuck in the same place where Rejo did. Sir has a bad knee. I and two others who were helping everybody till now stood there helpless. One of us went down near the pipe in case Sir glided till there too.

Padma and her friend came by, past Sir and stood with me. They were the owners of the home where we were staying and were accompanying us as they wished to do Pooja at the caves. Her friend went a bit ahead but Padma stayed with me.

Sir was still stuck and there came a suggestion for him to go back and sit there until we returned from the caves. Padma asked me what is happening, I told her that our Sir is stuck and might not be able to complete the climb.

‘No, after coming till here and missing the caves, I won’t let that happen’ she called her friend and within the next few minutes both of them took big stones from around and carved a path for Sir to walk on.

As I walked with Padma for a while, I figured she and her friend had come from this route for the first time, they had taken the route near the stream always which is steeper and had zero experience of making a path as they just did.

I was in complete awe for all three of them, Padma, her friend, and Sir. Even when Sir was stuck he didn’t think of heading back, people asked him to but he didn’t move. He always says that ‘world takes care of me’ and I saw it happening for the first time. Almost magically, he was out of a dangerous situation!

There were a few more patches ahead but we all managed to reach the Caves. We sat inside the caves as Durgen spoke about the caves, Buddhism in general and answered our queries while Padma served us all some tea and biscuits after the Pooja.

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Selfie with Durgen, I wish I took one with Padma too, though evidently, I am bad at selfies!

We stepped out and Sir gave us time to eat our packed lunch. After which, I picked a corner where I could only hear the stream and sat there quietly. I registered how amazing a human Padma is and tried to think if I was in her position would I ever have the heart to do so, be so kind, be so helpful. I barely knew Padma but her warmth as a person touched my soul.

Being inspired by Padma I gave in more efforts to help on the walk down. Some steep patches made it harder for people with a fear of heights and hence I carried bottles, bags, whatever to ease the walk down.

On our way to the Tabo Monastery, we saw some petra glyphs. A lot of them are being studied by researchers to understand what they tried to depict. I could only point out a few ibex and human figures.

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I could spot the human figure, could you?

We reached Tabo Monastery, also referred to as the ‘Ajanta of Himalayas’. The monastery is famous for murals and striking stucco sculptures. The contrast between simple mud exterior and the fabulously detailed interior is why Tabo Monastery is a must visit.

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Once we were back Sir gave us time to do what we wanted for a few hours as it was very evident that Lari had exhausted everyone. I had time in hand, a village around me, I just had to go and explore. I didn’t wish to go alone as I suck at roads.

Abhishek, my junior from college agreed to come with me. He is as bad with roads but he said we will figure it out. We stepped out and I thanked him for accompanying me when even I didn’t know where I am heading.

We were walking in the village as I said Juley to a lady. She greeted back. Her name was Anju Bota, I got talking to her a bit and asked her if I could see her home. She agreed and her kid took us in. We walked into a beautiful home with colorful carpets, curtains, and beddings.

Traditionally at least in the Buddhism followed in Tabo village, girls are not given family property. And since, Anju is the only child; her husband gets the property but has to stay with her family like what we understand as ghar-jamai.

Her husband and her mother were out working. She was also working with the cattle until she came across us. She and her husband are both educated and can take up a job as well but wish to work on this family land.

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Thank You, Abhishek for capturing this moment.

After conversing and taking some adorable pictures of her kid we left. On the way back I imagined what a wonderful life Anju has, almost dreamlike. imagine living a life in a small cozy house in the mountains with your husband, kid and even your mother, oh wow! I wonder if she thought about it the same way!

As we reached our homestay, I thanked Abhishek again. I was strolling around and got talking to the owner of our homestay Amir, a civil engineer. He and his family own both homestays we were staying in and it was his brain behind the structure of them.

It was the land of his forefathers which was given to him. He divided the land part for farming and another part, especially for homestays. He had traveled and learned what hikers, trekkers, tourists wish for in a homestay or a hotel. He has tried his best to combine homestay and hotel features for a pleasant stay experience.

He then took me to their old home which was just next door where the entire family actually stays. His mother was cooking our dinner as we entered. We were a lot to be fed so some food was also being cooked here. She was happy to see me and asked for tea, I politely denied. Amir took me in to show the house.

The structure was similar to what I had just seen at Anju’s house. However, the color scheme of this wasn’t as bright and well done. It did look like they don’t really stay here. Only Amir’s mother’s room looked well kept. I saw their prayer room and it was magical. I sat there quietly for a while.

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It was time for me to return to our dining area for soup and session with Sir. I told his mother that her room was pretty and the house, in general, was really beautiful. I and Amir then headed to the dining area.

The mystery of the luxury at the homestay was solved. Sir resolved other questions about everything we saw that day. After which we had dinner and a comfortable sleep. Only if I knew about what was in store next day I would have eaten more and slept earlier.

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