Spiti Valley was ruled by Sen Kings. In the 7th century was annexed by the kingdom of Ladakh and in the 10th century was given to one of the three sons of the King of Ladakh. Hence, the living of Spiti is similar to that in Ladakh. This is the third post in my series and I hope you enjoy the read!
I got up and got ready. Before we left our room with luggage, I took a picture of the view from our room. In my head, bid goodbye to Tabo and headed to the bus with my bags. After loading all our bags, we had breakfast, took some packed lunch and left for Mane Village. We began our trek to Mane as soon as we reached the village.
In the start, the terrain was similar to that of Lari but later land became much more firm for a proper grip. The walk became a struggle for a few people and Anish Dada came to the rescue. He asked the few people who were finding it difficult, to walk ahead. Everyone was instructed to follow them. He made sure they walked at their pace, took enough rest and didn’t give up even if they felt like.
He didn’t ask of me anything, but I felt the need to help him. I tried that there is no big gap developed in the middle from the people ahead and Sir at the back. I walked with the last person and made sure there was not a real big gap anytime throughout the walk and that all walked almost together.
As I did so, I figured I wasn’t walking at my pace. I was walking very slowly to match up with whoever was being left behind. This made me more tired but I saw Anish Dada ahead doing the same and I kept walking.
I love climbing mountains, and here we were going to do nothing but just climb mountains the entire day. I was overjoyed by the scenic beauty around, though I wasn’t at my walking pace, I was in my happy place!
I missed my usual dance partner but it was time I find a new one and I did. I did London Thumakda twice with her, once my steps, later her steps. I think we did one for the camera as well. I am surprised how I always manage to bully at least one person to dance with me.
Dancing alone couldn’t release my happy hormones, I had to pour it out and so I began to sing. I changed my playlist depending on the level of struggle of the person I was walking with.
We reached Mane Lake. It was dry land. According to our guide, this time of the year, it would have water years back. Sir always says that ‘you don’t realize climate change and global warming until you see it’ and this is extremely true. My heart sank to stand on this dry patch of land, longing to be a lake.
However, I jotted some thoughts and then joined the celebrations of the reaching the lake. We danced. We clicked pictures and had a lot of fun. I realized I was so truly happy with the people I was with!
All the dancing, taking different pictures had drained all of us. And now when it was time to walk down, I sensed that it will get difficult, for me and for the group as well. So I got a playlist ready in my mind, some sweets in my pocket, all set for the task down.
However, the climb down turned out to be climbing a few more mountains to reach Mane village. Now the gaps started getting bigger and maintaining them became tougher. I could manage only a few at a time and felt bad I couldn’t push myself more to lessen the gaps in the middle.
Somehow with a lot of efforts, we reached the village. I heard Sir say that the group did well. I looked at Anish Dada and felt so proud. He took charge and all of us managed to do the trek well. One person got altitude sickness and a few others were broken mentally. I saw it yet felt proud as no one gave up or cribbed, and they were all still saying that it was all worth it.
We ate and took good rest that day. We packed our bags and left for Dhankar Lake next day. The trek was kept optional as a few were sick. However, maximum people did turn up for the trek.
As we started the climb for Dhankar, I saw a girl lead. When I looked closely I figured she was one of the climbers struggling yesterday. I felt inspired and decided to walk with her. After conversations, I figured it is the love for mountains that has let her overcome the fear of climbing one.
I was so happy looking at her personal growth in a day I sang for her. I asked if she was okay with my singing, she said she found it soothing and that’s how we both reached Dhankar Lake. Some conversations, some singing, some observations of birds and the environment, what more for a happy climb!
We spent some time around the lake and left. As we walked down I had fun with a few friends and then decided to walk at my pace. I reached down and saw my climber friend down already at the Dhankar Monastery waiting for the rest. I told her that she really did well. That from struggling yesterday to ace the climb as well as descend today was commendable!
I saw that people were yet to come and Sir would take time to reach too. Whenever there is some time in hand, ‘let’s talk to locals’ is the siren that plays in my head. So I went in search of people willing to talk. I came across a group of ladies working on lamps.
I asked if I could join in to help and they smiled. I then enquired if the lamps were for a special occasion or were it their daily routine. ‘It is Budha’s birthday tomorrow. We have been cleaning the Monastery for months and now preparing for the big pooja tomorrow.’ I helped to put oil in the lamps and do the twigs too.
They were all from Dhankar village and they get together every time for such occasions and do the preparations together as a village. Kids and youngsters join in later and do the ‘mandaps’ for serving food. As I took the lamps inside the Monastery, I saw the monk and said Juley!
He greeted back and I asked him about the big pooja the next day and specialty of it. He said they celebrate Buddha’s birthday every year. It involves the participation of the entire village, some prayers, chanting and some feast for all at the end. I thanked him and came out.
In a while, we all left for Ki Monastery. Halfway through we got permission from Sir and sat on the top of the bus. There was Spiti River on the side, curvy road leading to Ki Monastery in sight, breeze kissing my face and caressing my hair. I felt free, I felt happy, I felt blessed, I felt all of this and more on the crazy ride to the Monastery.
Ki Monastery looks beautiful and the view from the top is exceptional. A monk showed us around the Monastery. He showed us ancient paintings and the place where ancient scriptures were kept. We weren’t allowed to click pictures but we stood in the room where Dalai Lama stayed and which as per this monk hasn’t been much disturbed after he left.
From Ki, now we left for Chicham Bridge. This bridge was built last year. It now connects the Chicham village to of Spiti. Earlier people would have to cross the steep valley to meet their needs. The height of this bridge is 150mtr. The view from this bridge was beautiful, we didn’t have time but someday I’ll go to Chicham village and know some stories.
However, my thirst to know locals was full filled as we reached Kibber and Sir gave us time to explore. I greeted many people and talked to a few. There were two ladies who had been to Pune, Mumbai and didn’t like it there. They couldn’t handle the urban noise.
One monk who had accompanied them even fell sick and they came back. One of them said that there are people from the village who have gone to cities and even abroad and are making a good living but she would love to live and die here in her small yet peaceful living in Kibber.
After a delightful conversation, we left for Kaza. We ate and had a good sleep. The lights in my room were too low and didn’t suit my eyes. I had a terrible headache and just slept with a hope to be not sick in the morning