The Konkan Kind – III

Various gods and goddesses are worshipped around Konkan region. Believers flock in from many states for blessings. I saw a few of these deities during my three-day trip. Hope you enjoyed the journey so far and love this last read in the series.

One friend was supposed to leave us after dinner but her thing at work got sorted and she could stay. I asked her to treat us all with ice cream. After a wonderful day at so many forts and then the beach and now I ice cream. ‘I was dancing of joy inside’ could definitely be an understatement!

We went to the place we were spending our night. I didn’t even keep my bag down as I got busy with a fur ball. And there were two of them, two furry cats! I got busy playing with them and in a while slept.

The room was small for us and heat was terrible. I got up after an hour’s nap, irritable and angry because of incomplete sleep. I asked a friend awake for a similar reason and we stepped out. The moon was there, calm and as if awaiting my arrival.

I realized there is no way out and I have to sleep in there and went to give it another try. The cats and other nuisance woke others sleeping by now. So five of us awake stepped out. Unable to sleep, unable to do anything, damn irritable, we decided to have a walk.

 

We walked, talked about music, shared random thoughts and stories and finally went in and got a few hours of sleep in that hot pot. Five of us turned an irritable night of restlessness into a memorable one where we talked, laughed and shared. Moments as such with people you travel adds to the glory of a trip.

After morning tea we left for Ratnadurg fort. We had been to this fort before, yet saw it in a different light this time. This is a must visit fort if you plan to land in Konkan anytime, the placement of it, the structure, the view, it is all a delight not to be missed!

Next, we saw the Velneshwar Temple. The Shiva idol is the prime attraction of this place, especially during the Mahashivratri celebrations. The pristine clean beach behind the temple is mesmerising but not open for tourists now, perhaps why it has managed to stay clean.

We now went to the famous Kalbhairav Temple, also known as Bahiri Temple. It is constructed by the Gujar family. This temple is known to have not only Hindu devotees but also Jain and Islam origin devotees.

After this, we quickly saw the Jogeshwari Temple, commonly called the Jugai Temple. This is a shrine of Shree Jugaidevi. The structure of this temple is beautiful and has a calm ambience for anyone to sit and connect to the superpowers.

We now headed to Ganpati Phule. This is a Ganesh Temple on the base of a small hill and has a beautiful beach in the front. I loved the various kinds of Ganesh idols on the structure of the temple.

 

We had a quick breakfast and then went to a fort finally. I was done with watching various deities. And Jaigadh proved to be love at first sight. The fort has a deep pit at the entrance (khandak) and the fortification walls still stand strong around the fort.

There are many structures still in good condition in the fort, including temples, wells and even a few rooms. Our timing I felt was perfect as the light’s romance with the structure made for many beautiful frames.

 

 

I felt very content after exploring this fort. Now, we took a jetty ride with our sumo in it. It was an amazing experience to be in sumo, then have the sumo in a jetty and then again riding the sumo to the next place planned, Vyadeshwar Temple.

This shrine is dedicated to Lord Shiva but has several other deities like Talkeshwar, Udaleshwar, and Balkeshwar. The idols of God Ganesh, God Vishnu, and God Surya are also there.

After this, we saw the Gopalgadh lighthouse and also learned from a person working there how it functions, what are its functions mainly etc. It was the first time I saw a lighthouse so up close, it was a beautiful learning experience.

We now headed to Goaplgadh, the gates were closed because apparently, this fort isn’t a public property anymore. We don’t go by the rules and figured our way in and the experience of this fort was fun, full of laughter and madness. Also known as Anjanvel, this fort was also part of the trade route at the time.

 

After such a big day, we were blessed with a kind stay at one of our friend’s house in Aare village. It was a beautiful night and I had one of the best sleep of the entire trip. On the ride to the house, I noticed a river and it could be heard from the house as well. I had to had to go there but it was dark

So, as planned, I got up early, woke my cousin and two friends. One decided to sleep and three of us headed out towards the river. We saw a land full of coconut palms. I danced around the trees as if in a dream and then we walked into the river.

We found a place, sat there for a while and in some time got joined by our sleepy friend. He found us and now four of us spent time talking and clicking with our feet in the river. For a while, we all were quiet, I could hear only the river, fluttering of the palm leaves and some birds and yes it felt like the Konkan kind of goodbye.

My heart sank as I walked back to the house. We noticed a big spider eat a grasshopper. We noticed another spider and stood and clicked photos in awe for nature. When we finally reached the house, we had our morning tea and breakfast and left for our bus to the station.

The stay was too emotional as I helped the lady cook. I do not step in the kitchen at home often, and the warmth received in a span of hours filled me with joy. The fact that the trip was about to end killed me more.

I was super quiet and sadly my face depicts what I feel and I am bad at hiding sorrow. I am blessed with great friends in life as the amazing playlist and care by a friend helped me not choke and bid Konkan gratitude filled goodbye with a smile.

We had lunch and got on the train and managed to get comfortable seats. This train journey back home will be marked as the most epic fun journey I have ever had. The jokes, the laughter, the games, the talks of the trip, each person present made me feel so blessed.

This was my first ever big trip of four days in total with my trekker group and I am so glad it was Konkan Kind. I built stronger bonds with people, learned about many new places and experienced Konkan truly. Blessed with the best people to trek and trip with is something I will brag for as long as I shall live!

(I couldn’t add in detailed information about the places I visited but have managed to put all the links to sites I took the information in a word file. If you wish to check this bibliography along with the entire itinerary, click here!)

A True Friend

“You talk the most, to yourself the entire day, so make sure, you talk well”

I don’t remember the exact quote or the name of the writer but it meant what I managed to write above. And this line is important because you can lie to your best friend but not to yourself. In this busy world, try to find a true friend in no one else but within you.

How to find a true friend within you? Simple, as you have found all your friends in life. Don’t know how to do that? Read on to find out.

“You watched Zakir Khan stand up?

Yes, of course.

And it leads to an hour talk on his jokes, which one is funniest, comedy overall etc. Instantly, a relatable conversation sparks up the start point of a friendship. Spark up a question to yourself, why do you enjoy Zakir Khan’s comedy? Answer that and you’ll have a little window open within you.

Another reason why people bond is they receive and reciprocate care and concern. Two people who try to be there for each other through thick and thin are said to be the best pals. You know who the one-two or if you are lucky five-six people are, who will be by your side, no matter how much you screw up.

But hey, when was the last time you took a day off for you? Did nothing but spent time reading, went for a spa, took to the art gallery or anything that relaxes you. Your body is all you got and showering some love for no reason is something you should try.

Over the years, the way we make friends, the way we bond has sure changed. I remember mom recalling in her college days she went for one movie only, they would all bond only during their study time and community functions.

Today, it is all over the place. You can talk on the phone, you can chat, you can go to movies, go to the mall, go to the stadium for a match, or to a club or a coffee house. The options are plenty.

The idea of how and where you bond transformed, but not the reason. Man is a social animal and will always like to be around people to talk, have fun and connect. It is a part of being a human.

The best way to stay connected to what you are is by meeting your old friend. Take your phone and call the oldest friend on the list and maybe if lucky, try to have a meet. It will be like looking into a mirror and watching your own transformation as a person.

‘I don’t know how to stay in touch with people’ I said

‘What do you mean?’ a colleague intrigued.

‘I don’t do math usually but I am in touch with two people from school, two people from junior college, and at the moment close to only two people from senior college’

‘Oh, that a weird math. But, if you wish to stay in touch with people, just text or call them randomly’

I can’t do that. Only if I could, I would be in touch with more people today. I tried to explain so to my colleague this a year ago, but she didn’t get it. I can’t chat on my phone with more than three-four people at a time. I can’t call someone every other day and talk randomly. This is how I am and I have been for years.

Have you faced something similar? If not, you are way too cool than I am. But, if you are as weird with this whole maintaining friends thing, high-five! Hopefully, we sail through this.

This is also the problem that we face while finding the true friend within us. I mean who can maintain taking a day off every month? Loner is what you will be called. You might even be called a retard.

I have faced it and I know it. But it is important to maintain that connection with you. It can get challenging and if not a best friend, try to find at least a friend. Try to know yourself. Try to understand why you did what you did. Accept your flaws, appreciate your efforts, improve and excel your abilities.

I am sure you will wish many people a happy friendship day, but, I hope you think about finding a true friend within you. It might sound creepy or it might sound wonderful, but I hope you give it a try.

5 Travel Essentials

There can be many essentials to carry when traveling but the following are a pure no-no. If you ever went on a trip and didn’t enjoy, you probably need to take notes. There are my five travel essentials I tick mark surely before I leave.

1 No Guilt

There can be a whole big list of trips I have had with the guilt of missing something important. A friend’s birthday, family occasion, some interview and what not. Throughout these many guilt trips, I have had the evident company of sorrow with a toss of weird emotional state.

Back when I began trekking and having big vacations, I was in college and would only have weekends to spend time doing something else. And so there would be some family gatherings or a night out at a friend’s place or something planned for the weekend.

It was still manageable back then as I would meet these important people during the week and make up for not being there for the weekend and traveling instead. But now that all work, missing a weekend gathering gives a bigger guilt.

After ruining a few trips, I added this to my checklist before I leave. I spoke with two of closest friends and told them why traveling is important for me. They have a better backstory of my life and they got it. It gets difficult, but now they always know when I am heading out and all our night outs and meets are planned way ahead.

2 No Emotional Baggage

How are guilt and emotional baggage different? Well, here I mean, if there is something is bothering you real bad, it is sucking the life out of you, it can be anything, big or small, don’t let it be in the way of you having fun on a trip, instead use the trip as a way to let go of it and feel lighter.

I have a habit of overthinking and it sucks. I still remember years back, I had a small argument with a very close friend before I left for a trip and I didn’t enjoy the day at all. It was so bad I couldn’t stop whining about the fight to a few I was traveling with.

I realized instead of being there and enjoying with people I was with, I spread gloomy vibes. Only if I could go back and change that day, and be a better person, I would. But hey, that day gave me this pointer. If you are an emotional fool like me, make sure you don’t miss ticking this off.

3 No Responsibility

This is one a little more subjective than the ones above. I am a responsible head otherwise. I have taken charge of things, people and situations and have done well. But, when I travel, I love to be with myself.

It is purely my time, where I get all my thoughts out and just be me. Be amidst nature and feel the love around without a single thought about the real world back home.

Last week I had been to Gorakhgadh and I trekked it with an eleven-year-old girl. It was her first ever trek. I saw the entire fort through her eyes, her observations, her happiness, her care and concern for others, her idea of fun and laughter. It was beautiful.

But, the entire climb up and down with her, I was worried. For this trip, she was my kiddo, she was my responsibility. It was different and difficult. I am not good with kids in general who are big enough to speak. I get very awkward, shy, or I don’t know why very conscious. But this kiddo was different.

Among the many things I learned from her, I surely figured that I can’t travel with someone’s responsibility. It was a fun trip with her but it isn’t something I can do often. I can do such a trip once in a while but not too often.

4 No Health Issue

This is the most important one and you should definitely add this to your checklist. I have traveled with a cough cold and fever and managed. But, always listen to your body, it does tell you if you can or cannot do something.

Do not mix this with the feeling of fear. Feeling sick out of fear is normal, but if there is something severe, just don’t go. Oh, yes, I have traveled sick and that trip is one of the worst I ever had.

I just had to travel and so I head out. But that day I realized when you are sick you slow down the entire group. You aren’t able to enjoy much and you kind of spoil it for others too.

I don’t even let someone carry my bag even if it is extremely heavy and the climb extremely difficult. If I am not able to carry one bag, how would someone carry two? Don’t let your health issue or any sort of physical trouble spoil someone’s fun. Stay back home and if you head out, give it all you got.

5 No Virtual Presence

I have made it a habit for my mom now that on one-day trips I call her only once when I began my journey back home and on two-day trips, I call her twice. On bigger trips, I call her once in two days. This is because of a simple rule I follow that is to use my phone only to click pictures, take videos and call mom once.

My phone is full time on airplane mode to save battery too as I still own an old Moto phone. If you have read my previous travel posts and loved how I connect to nature and people around, add this to your checklist and make sure to do it. This will help you be more present in the place you are more than just physically.

There is not a single trip I had where I haven’t followed this rule since my first ever trek. And the results have been beautiful. If not always, try this on your next travel, do let me know how it works for you.

These are five travel essentials I check before I head out. It may or may not work for you as they are purely subjective to my travel experiences but hey, if you try any of these, or do follow any, I would love to know your story.

 

 

 

My Spiti Saga – IV

There are two ways to reach Spiti Valley. One is through Manali crossing Lahual before reaching Spiti from Kumzum Pass (15,059 ft). This route gets cut off during winters. The southern route from Kinnaur from Shimla is an all-season route. We took the southern route to reach and left Spiti Valley by crossing Kumzum Pass. 

A headache in the mountains means a symptom of altitude sickness. When I got out of my bed I was so relieved to know my headache was gone. Do read about altitude sickness before you head to the mountains, prevention is always better than cure!

As planned we ate breakfast and reached Koumik. It is the highest village with a motorable road in Asia and is at a height of 15,027 feet above sea level. The land is considered barren for cultivation. And like many parts of Ladakh, it is cut off completely from the rest of the country during winters.

 

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We entered the Lundap Tsemo Gompa Monastery, famous for being the highest motorable monastery in the world. The 14th-century monastery has a fortified castle made of slanted mud walls, representing the murals, scriptures, and arts. This Monastery has ‘Matrey Buddha’ or ‘the future Buddha’ and believed to be the one who looks after the village.

I was observing the place is awe when Sir mentioned that Koumik village has severe water struggles. He gave us time to take pictures of the place and spend time in the village. When I stepped out, I saw a local drinking water from a stream and I approached him.

I drank water with him and initiated a conversation. He told me that for two years they have a ‘kull’ (like a dam) that has reduced their water problems. And the information about land being barren turned out to be false as he said they do cultivate peas, coriander among a few leafy vegetables too. They mostly cultivate it for their homes but sell the rest in Hikkim, a village 5km from Koumik.

According to the man I conversed with not water but a hospital is a bigger concern. There is only a dispensary that they have access to which is also in Hikkim. On the brighter side, I was happy to see a school at such a height. This proved the importance that people have for education here.

 

Now we left for Hikkim, this place is known for it has the world’s highest post office. No other place at such a height has a post office! Sir being Sir had carried postcards for all of us and everyone sent postcards.

I like to write but it is a task to write to someone and give it to them. I have books filled with thank you letters, birthday letters, random poems I have written for people and never given. So obviously, I wasn’t thinking I’ll be sending postcards.

But something in me challenged me. I wrote and sent four postcards from Hikkim. I was so emotional on the ride back from Hikkim because I couldn’t believe I did it. A part of me was hoping that the postcards don’t reach. A part of me was dying to know when it reaches!

With such mixed feelings, I got down at the next stop. It looked like a beautiful patch of green land with mountains at the back. It was a fossil bed. Sir asked us to find fossils. I couldn’t but a few in our group did find fossils. This fossil bed is little away from Hikkim on the way to Kaza near a stream.

After lunch, we left for Manali, a long bus journey from Kaza. I decided not to sleep and watch the change in terrain like I had done on the ride from Kalka to Sangla. I was done with singing, but as I looked at the mountains and streams pass by, my mind couldn’t stop playing something.

After crossing the beautiful Kumzum Pass, we reached Baatal. We were now to face the most difficult road patch according to Raju, our beloved driver. He was so scared that it was evident on his face. But we managed to cross it and do so before it got dark.

It was dusk but someone was out to say hi. It was a big full moon smiling at us between the big mountains. It looked grand and gorgeous! The smile became brighter as I saw the sky become darker. This transition from dusk to dark was the most enchanting one I ever saw!

We stopped for a pee break after which people in bus asked me to sit ahead, next to the driver. I couldn’t have asked for more. The moonlight reflecting off the ice made the ride sparkly! I took videos for a few people and we sang some beautiful songs.

The sparkling road, the smiling moon, some breeze and my mind singing romantic songs for the moon, I couldn’t have asked for a better way to cross the Rohtang pass!

We reached Manali late in the evening, had some dinner and slept. Next day we spent some good time in Van Vihar forest and also visited the famous Hadimba temple. We saw the Nagar Castle and also Roerich’s museum. After lunch, we headed to our meet with Dr. Vaji Varghese at his place.

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Mesmerizing pine trees of Van Vihar forest

He has worked with many people around Spiti Valley for various illnesses and has tremendous experience working in Manali from the time he came here in 1979. He showed us pictures he clicked of people and places as he traveled. We saw some jaw-dropping pictures of Zanskar Valley and more likely, next May that is where we will head!

Sir gave us the night to explore eateries around Manali and be back by 9pm to the stay. We had some good dinner and wine and got back to the stay just in time. The rest of the night was spent well laughing, joking and making the time together worthwhile.

The next day we left for Jibi. We reached in the night, had some delicious dinner and slept. I attempted to talk to people now. This is how my mind is, usually quiet and loves to be away from people, but when the trip is going to end, like a reflex, blabbers with everyone around!

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Early morning we left for the waterfall. The walk to this waterfall is one of the most serene walks I have had during this entire trip with dark, lush green trees around. I felt like walking into the soul of a forest and the serene look of the waterfall felt like reaching the heart of it!

After spending some calm time we came back and left for Chehni Kothi. It is believed that Chehni Kothi was built in the 17th century by Kind Dhadu therefore also referred to as Dhahiya Kothi at times. The tower is assumed to be used as both temple and a watch-tower.

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The architecture of Chehni Kothi is a special technique known as Kath-Khuni where blocks of stone and wood are placed alternatively to create a strong earthquake-proof structure. This sort of architecture even the Nagar Castle had and also some structures seen at Chitkul.

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After lunch, we went to Bahu Temple. This temple is in the middle of a beautiful pine forest. It is famous for it has an offering place where there is a lot of iron offerings done by people. There are wheels, trishuls, cookers etc found as offerings.

On the way back it started to rain. It was such an amazing feeling, amidst tall pine trees rain trying to find its way and kissing me. I felt so loved on the way back, I couldn’t help but smile all the way through.

We had some dinner and slept. I talked to a few people for a while before I dozed off. Next day Sir took us to the waterfall again. It was the last thing after which we left for Kalka. Yes, it was going to be a goodbye mountains moment and I wasn’t really prepared.

We got up and we reached the waterfall, and Sir asked us to do our own thing, to bid goodbye our own way. I looked at the waterfall for a while, after which I started following the stream down.

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It is so easy for me to open up to flowing water. I talked about the entire trip, about everything good and bad, and about the challenges that lay ahead once I am back. This time, I didn’t cry, this time I smiled. I was happy and content with a cherishing experience and I promised to stay happy once back home.

We left for Kalka later that day. We reached by evening, had dinner and slept. Next day morning we took the train back to Bombay. This time the train journey wasn’t weird. I had managed to build some good bonds with people. I surely had many moments to cherish again and again with people and also the places. Blessed is the word I truly felt as the overall vibe of the trip.

My Spiti Saga – III

Spiti Valley was ruled by Sen Kings. In the 7th century was annexed by the kingdom of Ladakh and in the 10th century was given to one of the three sons of the King of Ladakh. Hence, the living of Spiti is similar to that in Ladakh. This is the third post in my series and I hope you enjoy the read!

I got up and got ready. Before we left our room with luggage, I took a picture of the view from our room. In my head, bid goodbye to Tabo and headed to the bus with my bags. After loading all our bags, we had breakfast, took some packed lunch and left for Mane Village. We began our trek to Mane as soon as we reached the village.

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Me: Goodbye Tabo!
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Tabo: here, take this flower as a souvenir.

In the start, the terrain was similar to that of Lari but later land became much more firm for a proper grip. The walk became a struggle for a few people and Anish Dada came to the rescue. He asked the few people who were finding it difficult, to walk ahead. Everyone was instructed to follow them. He made sure they walked at their pace, took enough rest and didn’t give up even if they felt like.

He didn’t ask of me anything, but I felt the need to help him. I tried that there is no big gap developed in the middle from the people ahead and Sir at the back. I walked with the last person and made sure there was not a real big gap anytime throughout the walk and that all walked almost together.

As I did so, I figured I wasn’t walking at my pace. I was walking very slowly to match up with whoever was being left behind. This made me more tired but I saw Anish Dada ahead doing the same and I kept walking.

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Anish Dada at Mane Lake

I love climbing mountains, and here we were going to do nothing but just climb mountains the entire day. I was overjoyed by the scenic beauty around, though I wasn’t at my walking pace, I was in my happy place!

I missed my usual dance partner but it was time I find a new one and I did. I did London Thumakda twice with her, once my steps, later her steps. I think we did one for the camera as well. I am surprised how I always manage to bully at least one person to dance with me.

Dancing alone couldn’t release my happy hormones, I had to pour it out and so I began to sing. I changed my playlist depending on the level of struggle of the person I was walking with.

We reached Mane Lake. It was dry land. According to our guide, this time of the year, it would have water years back. Sir always says that ‘you don’t realize climate change and global warming until you see it’ and this is extremely true. My heart sank to stand on this dry patch of land, longing to be a lake.

However, I jotted some thoughts and then joined the celebrations of the reaching the lake. We danced. We clicked pictures and had a lot of fun. I realized I was so truly happy with the people I was with!

All the dancing, taking different pictures had drained all of us. And now when it was time to walk down, I sensed that it will get difficult, for me and for the group as well. So I got a playlist ready in my mind, some sweets in my pocket, all set for the task down.

However, the climb down turned out to be climbing a few more mountains to reach Mane village. Now the gaps started getting bigger and maintaining them became tougher. I could manage only a few at a time and felt bad I couldn’t push myself more to lessen the gaps in the middle.

Somehow with a lot of efforts, we reached the village. I heard Sir say that the group did well. I looked at Anish Dada and felt so proud. He took charge and all of us managed to do the trek well. One person got altitude sickness and a few others were broken mentally. I saw it yet felt proud as no one gave up or cribbed, and they were all still saying that it was all worth it.

We ate and took good rest that day. We packed our bags and left for Dhankar Lake next day. The trek was kept optional as a few were sick. However, maximum people did turn up for the trek.

As we started the climb for Dhankar, I saw a girl lead. When I looked closely I figured she was one of the climbers struggling yesterday. I felt inspired and decided to walk with her. After conversations, I figured it is the love for mountains that has let her overcome the fear of climbing one.

I was so happy looking at her personal growth in a day I sang for her. I asked if she was okay with my singing, she said she found it soothing and that’s how we both reached Dhankar Lake. Some conversations, some singing, some observations of birds and the environment, what more for a happy climb!

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We spent some time around the lake and left. As we walked down I had fun with a few friends and then decided to walk at my pace. I reached down and saw my climber friend down already at the Dhankar Monastery waiting for the rest. I told her that she really did well. That from struggling yesterday to ace the climb as well as descend today was commendable!

I saw that people were yet to come and Sir would take time to reach too. Whenever there is some time in hand, ‘let’s talk to locals’ is the siren that plays in my head. So I went in search of people willing to talk. I came across a group of ladies working on lamps.

I asked if I could join in to help and they smiled. I then enquired if the lamps were for a special occasion or were it their daily routine. ‘It is Budha’s birthday tomorrow. We have been cleaning the Monastery for months and now preparing for the big pooja tomorrow.’ I helped to put oil in the lamps and do the twigs too.

They were all from Dhankar village and they get together every time for such occasions and do the preparations together as a village. Kids and youngsters join in later and do the ‘mandaps’ for serving food. As I took the lamps inside the Monastery, I saw the monk and said Juley!

He greeted back and I asked him about the big pooja the next day and specialty of it. He said they celebrate Buddha’s birthday every year. It involves the participation of the entire village, some prayers, chanting and some feast for all at the end. I thanked him and came out.

In a while, we all left for Ki Monastery. Halfway through we got permission from Sir and sat on the top of the bus. There was Spiti River on the side, curvy road leading to Ki  Monastery in sight, breeze kissing my face and caressing my hair. I felt free, I felt happy, I felt blessed, I felt all of this and more on the crazy ride to the Monastery.

Ki Monastery looks beautiful and the view from the top is exceptional. A monk showed us around the Monastery. He showed us ancient paintings and the place where ancient scriptures were kept. We weren’t allowed to click pictures but we stood in the room where Dalai Lama stayed and which as per this monk hasn’t been much disturbed after he left.

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From Ki, now we left for Chicham Bridge. This bridge was built last year. It now connects the Chicham village to of Spiti. Earlier people would have to cross the steep valley to meet their needs. The height of this bridge is 150mtr. The view from this bridge was beautiful, we didn’t have time but someday I’ll go to Chicham village and know some stories.

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However, my thirst to know locals was full filled as we reached Kibber and Sir gave us time to explore. I greeted many people and talked to a few. There were two ladies who had been to Pune, Mumbai and didn’t like it there. They couldn’t handle the urban noise.

One monk who had accompanied them even fell sick and they came back. One of them said that there are people from the village who have gone to cities and even abroad and are making a good living but she would love to live and die here in her small yet peaceful living in Kibber.

After a delightful conversation, we left for Kaza. We ate and had a good sleep. The lights in my room were too low and didn’t suit my eyes. I had a terrible headache and just slept with a hope to be not sick in the morning

 

My Spiti Saga – II

Historically, Spiti Valley has been a border area, even the name in Tibetian means ‘the middle land’, basically land between India and Tibet. Spiti has similar topography to that of Tibetian Autonomous Region and Ladakh.
I hope you enjoy this second post in my series on Spiti & get to learn more about the place.

After a healthy breakfast and packed lunch, we left for Lari Caves. At these caves primarily monks meditated. Inside the caves, there are stupas of monks who meditated here. There is also an idol for the safety of these stupas.

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As we reached the base of the Caves, our guide, Durgen said ‘The climb might not be easy but let us try to enjoy it, together’ He had my heart at that moment. The climb was not easy as Durgen had mentioned, as the terrain was loose, with fine rocks and barely a path to walk on. But there was distant sound of the stream and breathtaking landscape that kept me going.

Few minutes in the walk and there was a difficult patch to cross. The path was narrow and one wrong step would mean a good fall. I crossed and few did too, I turned back and saw people struggling. I went back to help.

One person’s fear spread to the rest of the group and a few of us helped them all to walk through. But my big friend Rejo got stuck. I went to help him but he slipped. The path got lost and fine rocks started rolling, looking like a landslide. He glided down almost and luckily caught hold on a pipe. One of us helped him come up and walk it through. Now there was no path to walk on and I saw Sir approaching.

Sir tried but he got stuck in the same place where Rejo did. Sir has a bad knee. I and two others who were helping everybody till now stood there helpless. One of us went down near the pipe in case Sir glided till there too.

Padma and her friend came by, past Sir and stood with me. They were the owners of the home where we were staying and were accompanying us as they wished to do Pooja at the caves. Her friend went a bit ahead but Padma stayed with me.

Sir was still stuck and there came a suggestion for him to go back and sit there until we returned from the caves. Padma asked me what is happening, I told her that our Sir is stuck and might not be able to complete the climb.

‘No, after coming till here and missing the caves, I won’t let that happen’ she called her friend and within the next few minutes both of them took big stones from around and carved a path for Sir to walk on.

As I walked with Padma for a while, I figured she and her friend had come from this route for the first time, they had taken the route near the stream always which is steeper and had zero experience of making a path as they just did.

I was in complete awe for all three of them, Padma, her friend, and Sir. Even when Sir was stuck he didn’t think of heading back, people asked him to but he didn’t move. He always says that ‘world takes care of me’ and I saw it happening for the first time. Almost magically, he was out of a dangerous situation!

There were a few more patches ahead but we all managed to reach the Caves. We sat inside the caves as Durgen spoke about the caves, Buddhism in general and answered our queries while Padma served us all some tea and biscuits after the Pooja.

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Selfie with Durgen, I wish I took one with Padma too, though evidently, I am bad at selfies!

We stepped out and Sir gave us time to eat our packed lunch. After which, I picked a corner where I could only hear the stream and sat there quietly. I registered how amazing a human Padma is and tried to think if I was in her position would I ever have the heart to do so, be so kind, be so helpful. I barely knew Padma but her warmth as a person touched my soul.

Being inspired by Padma I gave in more efforts to help on the walk down. Some steep patches made it harder for people with a fear of heights and hence I carried bottles, bags, whatever to ease the walk down.

On our way to the Tabo Monastery, we saw some petra glyphs. A lot of them are being studied by researchers to understand what they tried to depict. I could only point out a few ibex and human figures.

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I could spot the human figure, could you?

We reached Tabo Monastery, also referred to as the ‘Ajanta of Himalayas’. The monastery is famous for murals and striking stucco sculptures. The contrast between simple mud exterior and the fabulously detailed interior is why Tabo Monastery is a must visit.

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Once we were back Sir gave us time to do what we wanted for a few hours as it was very evident that Lari had exhausted everyone. I had time in hand, a village around me, I just had to go and explore. I didn’t wish to go alone as I suck at roads.

Abhishek, my junior from college agreed to come with me. He is as bad with roads but he said we will figure it out. We stepped out and I thanked him for accompanying me when even I didn’t know where I am heading.

We were walking in the village as I said Juley to a lady. She greeted back. Her name was Anju Bota, I got talking to her a bit and asked her if I could see her home. She agreed and her kid took us in. We walked into a beautiful home with colorful carpets, curtains, and beddings.

Traditionally at least in the Buddhism followed in Tabo village, girls are not given family property. And since, Anju is the only child; her husband gets the property but has to stay with her family like what we understand as ghar-jamai.

Her husband and her mother were out working. She was also working with the cattle until she came across us. She and her husband are both educated and can take up a job as well but wish to work on this family land.

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Thank You, Abhishek for capturing this moment.

After conversing and taking some adorable pictures of her kid we left. On the way back I imagined what a wonderful life Anju has, almost dreamlike. imagine living a life in a small cozy house in the mountains with your husband, kid and even your mother, oh wow! I wonder if she thought about it the same way!

As we reached our homestay, I thanked Abhishek again. I was strolling around and got talking to the owner of our homestay Amir, a civil engineer. He and his family own both homestays we were staying in and it was his brain behind the structure of them.

It was the land of his forefathers which was given to him. He divided the land part for farming and another part, especially for homestays. He had traveled and learned what hikers, trekkers, tourists wish for in a homestay or a hotel. He has tried his best to combine homestay and hotel features for a pleasant stay experience.

He then took me to their old home which was just next door where the entire family actually stays. His mother was cooking our dinner as we entered. We were a lot to be fed so some food was also being cooked here. She was happy to see me and asked for tea, I politely denied. Amir took me in to show the house.

The structure was similar to what I had just seen at Anju’s house. However, the color scheme of this wasn’t as bright and well done. It did look like they don’t really stay here. Only Amir’s mother’s room looked well kept. I saw their prayer room and it was magical. I sat there quietly for a while.

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It was time for me to return to our dining area for soup and session with Sir. I told his mother that her room was pretty and the house, in general, was really beautiful. I and Amir then headed to the dining area.

The mystery of the luxury at the homestay was solved. Sir resolved other questions about everything we saw that day. After which we had dinner and a comfortable sleep. Only if I knew about what was in store next day I would have eaten more and slept earlier.

Valley of Vigor

‘I kept my bag aside, laid back on a rock, closed my eyes and heard only the stream on my left. In the shade of a huge rock and a little breeze from trees I couldn’t see, I spent a few moments with just the sound of the stream echoing the happiness in my soul.’

We will come to this beautiful moment soon which occurred during my recent adventure to Sandhan Valley. It is located in Igatpuri region of Maharashtra. Unlike my other trek experiences so far in Maharashtra this one was very different in many ways. Basic being that it isn’t a climb, it is only descending in the valley of shadows, and yes that’s what it is called.

My usual trek partner cousin – Sanish, wasn’t free this weekend when this trip was planned. In my head I knew I wouldn’t go without him, though my mom thought it was stupid to think so, I knew I wouldn’t go. He had some work pressure which I was well aware of and hence full week I had spent time to convince my mind that I won’t be travelling this weekend.

And then in the afternoon of the night we were supposed to leave I tried my luck and called him for a final yes or no and to my utter disbelief he said yes, yes he can make it! There was no bound to my joy as I was being blessed with a travel I had convinced myself of missing out!

I could see how tensed Sanish was though he tried his best to hide it. I knew what all was at stake for this trek to happen. I somehow wanted to fast forward the night and get to the time we start walking in the wild because I know nothing bothers us both once nature elopes us.

 

Next morning after breakfast we started the trek. If anything like what they call paradise exists then the first part of Sandhan Valley is how I feel the entrance of this paradise would look like. Holding us tight from both sides are huge rock structures, stone path in the middle with a few trees and the soothing stream waving at us every now and then.

Since I was ahead in the group I got time to search my spot and relax. Twice I found the perfect place to just sit back and look at the mountains. First, it was me and Sanish, where we lied down on a flat rock and looked up at the beauty of the huge rocks above us. And the second one was when I found a rock cut like a small chair for me to completely relax with my legs up.

We walked and reached a water patch where there was no way but to walk through the water. And so the whole team work begins. Everyone packs shoes and makes a trail to pass bags.

There were tall guys in our group who went in the water and it reached their hip. I thought I will be swimming this through or since I don’t know how to swim, perhaps just drown! I wasn’t of any use in the whole passing the bag trail thanks to my height. But there was water in front of me, I couldn’t resist and I stepped in.

The water was above my chest. I got some grip on my legs and stood still. The water felt cold and I looked up. The huge rock mountains on both sides made a curve. It felt like looking in a mirror as they reflected my smile.

This bag task was almost done, after a while we all wore our shoes and began to walk again.  We then reached the patch where we had to rappel down. This time around, the rappelling was very different.

Unlike how I could see the end of my rappel in AMK and in Bhairavgadh (Moroshi), here I couldn’t. There was a curve to the rock. And to my surprise, perhaps because I was happy high with the water patch I rappelled at ease and with speed. Sometimes your body surprises you and it’s a beautiful feeling!

After being overjoyed with two unique experiences it was time to calm down and this is when I relaxed beside the stream. Post which we had lunch and began to walk down again. There were a few difficult rock patches where we had to do the same ‘pass the bag first and then go down’ game but we did it all quick and had only to walk until we reached the village.

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Nilesh and his friends helped us find our way down. Sadly expected money from us in return though we provided food. This gave me reassurance about the Masters I have enrolled myself into and the work I wish to do in future. Hopefully I help make some difference to our society.

We reached around 7 pm and there was quite some time before we all dozed off. I was missing my usual talkative buddy with whom such a situation would be ideal to talk our hearts out. I felt silly now that I didn’t make enough efforts to talk the people I was with. But none the less I learned something new.

I learned how to marinate chicken. Since my mom doesn’t cook non vegetarian food, I took this as an opportunity and I am so happy I didn’t really goof it up much. I hope I try it once before the memory of learning how to do it washes off.

Next morning as planned we got up, sipped some tea and got into our vehicles to Asangaon station. The ride was about singing all bad songs with silly lyrics one could think of. It was one hilarious ride. And like all good treks that end with food, this one did too. We hadn’t had breakfast, so this one ended with hot and spicy Samosas!

I haven’t mentioned it much but I did miss more than a few people.
This has made me realize that I should have a post with profiles of people I trek with.

Stay tuned to get introduced to all my amazing trek mates.
Also don’t forget to check Insta @nisha_navgire for pics with poems on this trek!

A Tantalizing Trek Tale

I love bike rides. It has a different charm. I and my usual bike partner cousin were on a roll as we sang through the whole drive. From Sukhvinder’s “Oh ho oh ho” to “O mere dil k chein” our playlist had a smooth ride with our bullet.

We finally parked our bikes at 4am and were given an hour before we left for the trek. Almost all as expected dozed off. I looked at my friend and in a blink we knew what we were up to next.

We both did our own bit of research and found the best place to lie down and star gaze. The view was mesmerizing. It was last in October that we star gazed. We both have less understanding of the stars but same awe for their existence.

Eyes up at the sky, mind drowned in thoughts, without realizing I went into the world of stars. What a beautiful nap and dream it was !

It was dark, we all had torches and a few were ahead leading the way. As we walked a bit ahead we spotted a Night Jar. It looked stunning. A musical night bike ride, soulful star gazing with a nap and then the Night Jar, this trek surely had the best start!

The kind of trekking I have done and the average experience of the group I go with is quite good. We use harness and equipment only when it is really essential. Bhairavgadh (Maroshi) is one where we decided we will use it and hence a suggestion to anyone who is reading this and would wish to go, kindly take all safety measurements.

There were two people ahead who climbed the harness part. When I reached I couldn’t find them. I thought they must have gone ahead so I climbed all the steps and reached the top. I shouted their names but no avail. I was scared for minute.

People down said they have come up. There is no other way than these stairs, where have they gone then? I didn’t wish to go right at the top of the fort all alone so I climbed back down.

I saw that my group still hadn’t got all members up the harness. I decided to walk up again and find my two mates. I climbed up the stairs again, shouted their names but couldn’t locate them. More scared than before I climbed down again to get someone with me to find them.

I and a friend climbed up again and finally met the two. We saw the top most part of the fort and four of us began our journey down. As we did our entire group was up by the harness. We four were asked to climb up again for a group picture at the top of the fort. We hesitated a bit and then finally gave in.

This is my first ever trek saga where I got bored of a fort. Not because it was boring, because I climbed it a total of four times. However, the time spend at the top of the fort was worth it. And no don’t get me wrong, the fort is not at all boring. It is full of adventure and the scenic view is class but just make sure you climb up only once!

When I was waiting for my turn to rappel it down, the sun was right above my head and I was sweating like a pig. I had bought all my sun protection things, caps, glares, scarfs etc. It all lay in my bag down which I could reach only after rappelling. And there were a few people who were yet to go down before it were my chance.

Melting in the heat I realized that how we all have the necessary resources to face a storm in life. But it is locked up in the depths of our hearts and by the time we find it we have lost it to the storm. Let us therefore always be prepared for a storm and never let it win over us.

For me personally climbing up a mountain is easy as compared to walking down. This is because when I am climbing up, it is all up to me where I set my feet to head up. When I have to get down, it is not so easy. And this becomes a tad more difficult when I have to rappel it down.

The first step is the most difficult. And during rappelling especially for the first step my feet felt heavier than an elephant! I let go of this stupid feet thoughts and imagining why my feet is feeling heavy and rappelled down. And to my own surprise I did well.

Almost all of us were exhausted and so were our water resources. To our surprise an old man appeared out of nowhere guided us to a water body and disappeared again. Lord works in his own way and this old man proved that to me.

We all drank water to our hearts’ content and filled bottles before we left. We had lunch in the middle of the jungle and started to walk down. I wished to reach our bikes before the heat killed me and walked down as swiftly as I could.

I and two of my friends reached down without taking many water or shade stops and hence reached a good 45mins before the rest. This made me regain the lost energy. I was happy with the whole trek and didn’t expect much more but life is about surprises. And a kala-khatta gola in the crazy heat ended my thrilling trek on a high note!

BRO Quotes

It is like the drive up Nathu La

was listening to music,

while the drive down

understanding the lyrics.

As the ride took little pace

suddenly I saw a picture of my dad

yes, in my driver

it usually happens to me when

I speak to elderly men

The climate outside was getting cooler

As we drived up

But monsoon had began within

As my cheeks felt the showers

Each horrible memory of my childhood

Playing like a movie

It wasn’t Sanam my driver

It was his warm personality

Also he was too handsome to be my dad

Whenever I see a good elderly man

I think what if even a percent of this man my dad would be

So different each day of my childhood would be

 

Then suddenly a BRO Quote appears

“Tough times don’t last, tough people do”

So true I murmured under my breath

Sanam, was kind

He felt the vibe

He shared how he misses his small daughter

But this made my rain showers

Become silent thunder storms

Sanam didn’t know what went wrong

As I was already a bit low

But ‘missing’ the word only

Reminded me of my sister

How I wished to be there

At the airport, to wish her goodbye

To tell her, in one way or another

Intentionally or no

She did shape me into the person

I have turned out to be

but I am an awkward human

I know I wouldn’t have said so

If I was there, would have

Helped her and may be hugged her

And her behaviour would as ususal

Make me wish to stab her

Again a BRO Quote I read

“BRO it is never too late”

I wonder if it was to

Tell my sister what she means to me

Or to stab her

Smiling slightly I got down near a lake

Me and Sanam caught hands, had a quite walk

Without a single word

Just absorbing the beauty of the place

Silently, admist the touristy chaos

Just before I entered the jeep again

I saw a mother trying to save her small kid

From the cold, she held him inside her own jacket

I tried to see her till the last moment

The climate changed outside

As the clouds started covering the roads

So did the stormy clouds cover my heart

And heavy rains made my only tutle neck sweater wet

First time in the ride my crying made a sound

However I am too good making it feel

Like a cough & nose cleaning sound

How could I let her be alone

In a moment I knew she would need me the most

Dad is never there when needed

Grandma had left us abrubtly

Neha had to leave

How could I have been so selfish

And come for this IV?

 

 

 

I read a BRO Quote again

“BRO look on the bright side”

For the first time ever

I smiled in the middle of tears

Yes I thought

Wasn’t it all worth it

To be here, in the middle of clouds

And with these people #onelasttime

Meeting so many people

Formally and on the roads

I had consoled myself

As we almost reached Gangtok

When again a BRO Quote appeared

“BRO you live only once”

As if summing up my entire

Emotional Turmoil in the drive down

 

Sanam and BRO Quotes became my new BROs

I am not sure of meeting these BROs again

But they have given me a lesson

I will rewind again and again

 

A trip of Faith

I was stuck on a small patch with hardly some grip and a group of thorn shrubs, trying to find my way up. Three people crossed me, I tried to follow but just couldn’t. I felt stuck with three people ahead, rest too behind to help. What next?

A fourth person came by, I followed him, figured my way to top, and oh my, it was all so worth it! I could see layers of mountains before me romancing with clouds. The breeze welcomed me to their world and within moments I was lost! I poured my heart out in that moment, hoping that the mountains would listen, understand and help. Aha before that, time for a two-day flashback.


The first long weekend of the year was planned. Thursday night to Sunday night, all set to cover the Balgan Range in Maharashtra. I came home from work and within an hour left for the big trip ahead of me, and of course felt I didn’t pack properly.

We took a train to Kasara and had a 4-5 hour night ride to the base village of the first fort in plan-Nhavigadh. Hardly a few slept in train and everyone tried to sleep in the vehicle to the base village, I still wonder how many succeeded to get some sleep.

Outside the window I could see the moonlight shining on the fields though I couldn’t see the moon. There were thoughts about the day, my work, home, decisions about education I need to take etc. My head going in pace with the vehicle, I tried to sing along the songs but it didn’t work, my mind just loves creating chaos. This is when I realized, I hadn’t packed properly, I didn’t pack myself.

We were 14 people cramped up in a vehicle for 12 I suppose, so when we finally reached the base village Nhavigadh, we all did some stretches. But normal stretching is so bore, I instead had a race with my cousin, it was so refreshing, I finally packed myself, out of my chaotic mind, into a few days of just nothing, but me, the places I was going to and the people I was with!

Finally the climb of the first fort began, and the sun decided to rise up with us and bless us as if wishing us luck for the entire trip ahead. Wherever we were, we all sat down in awe.

No one amongst us had been to the fort and hence finding a way to the top was a task. A few went up, tried to find a way but couldn’t. A friend ahead of me said, we could try a route he could see ahead, I said let’s try and we did, we found the right way! A yay moment for me as I am pathetic with directions & everything in geography that way, but this changed in the course of the trip!

We hoisted the national flag on this fort as we do always when we trek on national holidays and began to head down. We had some amaze chai from a local house and headed to the next forts in plan.

We barely had some breakfast and took some cucumbers and other fruits to carry as we started the climb of Mangi-Tungi. Both are nothing but caves with jain structures carved in them. This place gives the feel of a typical tourist spot, with chitter-chatter and trash all over.

I was walking with a friend and talking about how there are two parallel worlds we are living in, one where we are reaching the best of technology and the other where we are simply destroying the way nature has always been.

I hadn’t even finished saying my entire thought when a monkey came by and snatched the fruits out of my friend’s hand. This took me back to when I saw the langoors ruling the Ranthambore fort. What are we doing to the wild? Where are we heading? This thought still makes me numb.

There were about more than thousand steps to the top and from there another 300 something to Tungi and over a 200 on the other side to Manghi. Whoever decided to not let the climb to these two places be naturally through the mountains as with other forts in Maharashtra and create these steps and make it touristy, thank you, you ruined a beautiful mountain and probably its soul will come and haunt you. When we reached the top, I saw newly made structures kept in front of the old carvings, this to me felt like flowers on the tomb of the dead mountain.

When we finally came down, I was hungry but my wish to eat had died. I didn’t feel too good about the experience. But as the good old saying said by nobody goes, ‘a dog can change your mood’ is true! I met a cute doggo and it all got undone.

We went to the base village Mulher, of the next forts in plan and climbed up half way to stay in a temple. People from the group cooked some amaze dinner as I slept through the whole process, woke up only to enjoy the pulao with some pickle. Next day morning, we got up, had our “pahado-wali-maggi” and left for the big day ahead.

This trip I didn’t carry my camera because I had a terrible pain in my left shoulder. I didn’t wish to make my camera a burden for someone else to carry. A decision I still can’t make peace with.This decision caused me a lot of frames, as they will now be only in my mind.

I did manage to capture a few from my phone and few in the phones of people I walked ahead with. The only positive part of this decision was I felt I lived in the moment, helped finding ways, more than I do usually when I trip with camera and phone on me.

We figured our way to Hargadh with a lot of trial and error. I had wild flowers on my head for company throughout, the time spent in the shades and the frequent embrace of the breeze made the journey magical. We took our group picture with the huge canon on the fort, saw the massive view of the mountains and moved to the next fort in plan, Muler.

Now the heat was creating hindrance in the climb but we managed to reach Muler as the way wasn’t as tough as the previous fort. We had lunch and explored the fort. We completed Muler and left for Mora immediately. The map below shall help you figure this out.

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I was ahead most of the time with a few people for company. And as the two forts done in the day were tiresome the speed of the group had slowed down. This to my advantage gave me some time with the mountains just below the base of Mora fort.

I began to pour my heart out and felt like I was being heard. The mountain responded with the help of breeze and the swifts trying to fly. I decided I won’t climb up Mora and be here with the mountains for a while. My cousin convinced me otherwise and I began climbing with him.

When we reached the top, the sun decided to bless us again, this time it showed in slo-mo how it goes down. This was one of the best sunsets I ever saw. It felt like I ticked off from my bucket list in one trip, the best sunrise and sunset!

We got down from Mora fort and reached the base village Saler of next forts in plan, Saler and Salota. We ate breakfast and left early as planned. I had ignored my shoulder pain all this while but it was the third continuous trek day and now my shoulder said it couldn’t take anymore.


There was no moving back, there was no other way, I told my shoulder to take in one more day and then no more. The conversation with my shoulder ended abruptly as my mind had a new thing to focus on, to get out of the no grip with only shrubs around situation.

When I got out of the place I was stuck, I went up and lied down for a while begging my shoulder to shut up, it kept saying give up give up and I kept ignoring. I finally was woken up by a really strong breeze as if sent by the mountains to wake me up.

The mountains said, the no grip-shrubs around situation you were stuck in, is just like you in your life right now. There are successful people ahead of you and there are people way behind as well. You took one leap of faith and you reached here to converse with me. That’s all you need to do, have faith, and take a leap of faith.

I received the answer I was looking for during my Ranthambore trip. Within a few days after this trip I put down papers at my job and enrolled myself in a course I always wished to do. A leap of faith taken, what lies ahead, time alone shall tell.

I was happy high the rest of the climb to Salota and Saler. I sang and danced to the mountains to thank them the entire day. The two songs on repeat were “Aas Paas Hai Khuda” and “Tu hai Aasma Mai”

When I saw a new trekker with us reach Saler, the last fort in plan, I felt motivated. It made me realize, that this trip was all about faith. She had faith and she did it. At Saler, the highest fort in Maharashtra, the clutter in my find finally cleared.

As always, I didn’t wish to leave the mountains, with a heavy heart and happy mind I trekked down. We reached back to Kalyan in time as planned and a beautiful trip ended with some tasty chicken and chapatis.


I hope this blog inspires you to travel and makes you believe in the power of nature.
I am planning to have a solo trip this year, to explore more facets of me & my bond with nature , if you have any suggestions, find me on Insta @nishanavgire !

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