My Spiti Saga – IV

There are two ways to reach Spiti Valley. One is through Manali crossing Lahual before reaching Spiti from Kumzum Pass (15,059 ft). This route gets cut off during winters. The southern route from Kinnaur from Shimla is an all-season route. We took the southern route to reach and left Spiti Valley by crossing Kumzum Pass.

A headache in the mountains means a symptom of altitude sickness. When I got out of my bed I was so relieved to know my headache was gone. Do read about altitude sickness before you head to the mountains, prevention is always better than cure!

As planned we ate breakfast and reached Koumik. It is the highest village with a motorable road in Asia and is at a height of 15,027 feet above sea level. The land is considered barren for cultivation. And like many parts of Ladakh, it is cut off completely from the rest of the country during winters.

We entered the Lundap Tsemo Gompa Monastery, famous for being the highest motorable monastery in the world. The 14th-century monastery has a fortified castle made of slanted mud walls, representing the murals, scriptures, and arts. This Monastery has ‘Matrey Buddha’ or ‘the future Buddha’ and believed to be the one who looks after the village.

I was observing the place is awe when Sir mentioned that Koumik village has severe water struggles. He gave us time to take pictures of the place and spend time in the village. When I stepped out, I saw a local drinking water from a stream and I approached him.

I drank water with him and initiated a conversation. He told me that for two years they have a ‘kull’ (like a dam) that has reduced their water problems. And the information about land being barren turned out to be false as he said they do cultivate peas, coriander among a few leafy vegetables too. They mostly cultivate it for their homes but sell the rest in Hikkim, a village 5km from Koumik.

According to the man I conversed with not water but a hospital is a bigger concern. There is only a dispensary that they have access to which is also in Hikkim. On the brighter side, I was happy to see a school at such a height. This proved the importance that people have for education here.

Now we left for Hikkim, this place is known for it has the world’s highest post office. No other place at such a height has a post office! Sir being Sir had carried postcards for all of us and everyone sent postcards.

I like to write but it is a task to write to someone and give it to them. I have books filled with thank you letters, birthday letters, random poems I have written for people and never given. So obviously, I wasn’t thinking I’ll be sending postcards.

But something in me challenged me. I wrote and sent four postcards from Hikkim. I was so emotional on the ride back from Hikkim because I couldn’t believe I did it. A part of me was hoping that the postcards don’t reach. A part of me was dying to know when it reaches!

With such mixed feelings, I got down at the next stop. It looked like a beautiful patch of green land with mountains at the back. It was a fossil bed. Sir asked us to find fossils. I couldn’t but a few in our group did find fossils. This fossil bed is little away from Hikkim on the way to Kaza near a stream.

After lunch, we left for Manali, a long bus journey from Kaza. I decided not to sleep and watch the change in terrain like I had done on the ride from Kalka to Sangla. I was done with singing, but as I looked at the mountains and streams pass by, my mind couldn’t stop playing something.

After crossing the beautiful Kumzum Pass, we reached Baatal. We were now to face the most difficult road patch according to Raju, our beloved driver. He was so scared that it was evident on his face. But we managed to cross it and do so before it got dark.

It was dusk but someone was out to say hi. It was a big full moon smiling at us between the big mountains. It looked grand and gorgeous! The smile became brighter as I saw the sky become darker. This transition from dusk to dark was the most enchanting one I ever saw!

We stopped for a pee break after which people in bus asked me to sit ahead, next to the driver. I couldn’t have asked for more. The moonlight reflecting off the ice made the ride sparkly! I took videos for a few people and we sang some beautiful songs.

The sparkling road, the smiling moon, some breeze and my mind singing romantic songs for the moon, I couldn’t have asked for a better way to cross the Rohtang pass!

We reached Manali late in the evening, had some dinner and slept. Next day we spent some good time in Van Vihar forest and also visited the famous Hadimba temple. We saw the Nagar Castle and also Roerich’s museum. After lunch, we headed to our meet with Dr. Vaji Varghese at his place.

IMG_20180529_130012166 — Mesmerizing pine trees of Van Vihar forest

He has worked with many people around Spiti Valley for various illnesses and has tremendous experience working in Manali from the time he came here in 1979. He showed us pictures he clicked of people and places as he traveled. We saw some jaw-dropping pictures of Zanskar Valley and more likely, next May that is where we will head!

Sir gave us the night to explore eateries around Manali and be back by 9pm to the stay. We had some good dinner and wine and got back to the stay just in time. The rest of the night was spent well laughing, joking and making the time together worthwhile.

The next day we left for Jibi. We reached in the night, had some delicious dinner and slept. I attempted to talk to people now. This is how my mind is, usually quiet and loves to be away from people, but when the trip is going to end, like a reflex, blabbers with everyone around!

Early morning we left for the waterfall. The walk to this waterfall is one of the most serene walks I have had during this entire trip with dark, lush green trees around. I felt like walking into the soul of a forest and the serene look of the waterfall felt like reaching the heart of it!

After spending some calm time we came back and left for Chehni Kothi. It is believed that Chehni Kothi was built in the 17^th century by Kind Dhadu therefore also referred to as Dhahiya Kothi at times. The tower is assumed to be used as both temple and a watch-tower.

The architecture of Chehni Kothi is a special technique known as Kath-Khuni where blocks of stone and wood are placed alternatively to create a strong earthquake-proof structure. This sort of architecture even the Nagar Castle had and also some structures seen at Chitkul.

After lunch, we went to Bahu Temple. This temple is in the middle of a beautiful pine forest. It is famous for it has an offering place where there is a lot of iron offerings done by people. There are wheels, trishuls, cookers etc found as offerings.

On the way back it started to rain. It was such an amazing feeling, amidst tall pine trees rain trying to find its way and kissing me. I felt so loved on the way back, I couldn’t help but smile all the way through.

We had some dinner and slept. I talked to a few people for a while before I dozed off. Next day Sir took us to the waterfall again. It was the last thing after which we left for Kalka. Yes, it was going to be a goodbye mountains moment and I wasn’t really prepared.

We got up and we reached the waterfall, and Sir asked us to do our own thing, to bid goodbye our own way. I looked at the waterfall for a while, after which I started following the stream down.

It is so easy for me to open up to flowing water. I talked about the entire trip, about everything good and bad, and about the challenges that lay ahead once I am back. This time, I didn’t cry, this time I smiled. I was happy and content with a cherishing experience and I promised to stay happy once back home.

We left for Kalka later that day. We reached by evening, had dinner and slept. Next day morning we took the train back to Bombay. This time the train journey wasn’t weird. I had managed to build some good bonds with people. I surely had many moments to cherish again and again with people and also the places. Blessed is the word I truly felt as the overall vibe of the trip.

July 2, 2018

My Spiti Saga – III

Spiti Valley was ruled by Sen Kings. In the 7th century was annexed by the kingdom of Ladakh and in the 10th century was given to one of the three sons of the King of Ladakh. Hence, the living of Spiti is similar to that in Ladakh. This is the third post in my series and I hope you enjoy the read!

I got up and got ready. Before we left our room with luggage, I took a picture of the view from our room. In my head, bid goodbye to Tabo and headed to the bus with my bags. After loading all our bags, we had breakfast, took some packed lunch and left for Mane Village. We began our trek to Mane as soon as we reached the village.

IMG_20180526_052848355 — Me: Goodbye Tabo!

Tabo: here, take this flower as a souvenir.

In the start, the terrain was similar to that of Lari but later land became much more firm for a proper grip. The walk became a struggle for a few people and Anish Dada came to the rescue. He asked the few people who were finding it difficult, to walk ahead. Everyone was instructed to follow them. He made sure they walked at their pace, took enough rest and didn’t give up even if they felt like.

He didn’t ask of me anything, but I felt the need to help him. I tried that there is no big gap developed in the middle from the people ahead and Sir at the back. I walked with the last person and made sure there was not a real big gap anytime throughout the walk and that all walked almost together.

As I did so, I figured I wasn’t walking at my pace. I was walking very slowly to match up with whoever was being left behind. This made me more tired but I saw Anish Dada ahead doing the same and I kept walking.

I love climbing mountains, and here we were going to do nothing but just climb mountains the entire day. I was overjoyed by the scenic beauty around, though I wasn’t at my walking pace, I was in my happy place!

I missed my usual dance partner but it was time I find a new one and I did. I did London Thumakda twice with her, once my steps, later her steps. I think we did one for the camera as well. I am surprised how I always manage to bully at least one person to dance with me.

Dancing alone couldn’t release my happy hormones, I had to pour it out and so I began to sing. I changed my playlist depending on the level of struggle of the person I was walking with.

We reached Mane Lake. It was dry land. According to our guide, this time of the year, it would have water years back. Sir always says that ‘you don’t realize climate change and global warming until you see it’ and this is extremely true. My heart sank to stand on this dry patch of land, longing to be a lake.

However, I jotted some thoughts and then joined the celebrations of the reaching the lake. We danced. We clicked pictures and had a lot of fun. I realized I was so truly happy with the people I was with!

All the dancing, taking different pictures had drained all of us. And now when it was time to walk down, I sensed that it will get difficult, for me and for the group as well. So I got a playlist ready in my mind, some sweets in my pocket, all set for the task down.

However, the climb down turned out to be climbing a few more mountains to reach Mane village. Now the gaps started getting bigger and maintaining them became tougher. I could manage only a few at a time and felt bad I couldn’t push myself more to lessen the gaps in the middle.

Somehow with a lot of efforts, we reached the village. I heard Sir say that the group did well. I looked at Anish Dada and felt so proud. He took charge and all of us managed to do the trek well. One person got altitude sickness and a few others were broken mentally. I saw it yet felt proud as no one gave up or cribbed, and they were all still saying that it was all worth it.

We ate and took good rest that day. We packed our bags and left for Dhankar Lake next day. The trek was kept optional as a few were sick. However, maximum people did turn up for the trek.

As we started the climb for Dhankar, I saw a girl lead. When I looked closely I figured she was one of the climbers struggling yesterday. I felt inspired and decided to walk with her. After conversations, I figured it is the love for mountains that has let her overcome the fear of climbing one.

I was so happy looking at her personal growth in a day I sang for her. I asked if she was okay with my singing, she said she found it soothing and that’s how we both reached Dhankar Lake. Some conversations, some singing, some observations of birds and the environment, what more for a happy climb!

We spent some time around the lake and left. As we walked down I had fun with a few friends and then decided to walk at my pace. I reached down and saw my climber friend down already at the Dhankar Monastery waiting for the rest. I told her that she really did well. That from struggling yesterday to ace the climb as well as descend today was commendable!

I saw that people were yet to come and Sir would take time to reach too. Whenever there is some time in hand, ‘let’s talk to locals’ is the siren that plays in my head. So I went in search of people willing to talk. I came across a group of ladies working on lamps.

I asked if I could join in to help and they smiled. I then enquired if the lamps were for a special occasion or were it their daily routine. ‘It is Budha’s birthday tomorrow. We have been cleaning the Monastery for months and now preparing for the big pooja tomorrow.’ I helped to put oil in the lamps and do the twigs too.

They were all from Dhankar village and they get together every time for such occasions and do the preparations together as a village. Kids and youngsters join in later and do the ‘mandaps’ for serving food. As I took the lamps inside the Monastery, I saw the monk and said Juley!

He greeted back and I asked him about the big pooja the next day and specialty of it. He said they celebrate Buddha’s birthday every year. It involves the participation of the entire village, some prayers, chanting and some feast for all at the end. I thanked him and came out.

In a while, we all left for Ki Monastery. Halfway through we got permission from Sir and sat on the top of the bus. There was Spiti River on the side, curvy road leading to Ki Monastery in sight, breeze kissing my face and caressing my hair. I felt free, I felt happy, I felt blessed, I felt all of this and more on the crazy ride to the Monastery.

Ki Monastery looks beautiful and the view from the top is exceptional. A monk showed us around the Monastery. He showed us ancient paintings and the place where ancient scriptures were kept. We weren’t allowed to click pictures but we stood in the room where Dalai Lama stayed and which as per this monk hasn’t been much disturbed after he left.

From Ki, now we left for Chicham Bridge. This bridge was built last year. It now connects the Chicham village to of Spiti. Earlier people would have to cross the steep valley to meet their needs. The height of this bridge is 150mtr. The view from this bridge was beautiful, we didn’t have time but someday I’ll go to Chicham village and know some stories.

However, my thirst to know locals was full filled as we reached Kibber and Sir gave us time to explore. I greeted many people and talked to a few. There were two ladies who had been to Pune, Mumbai and didn’t like it there. They couldn’t handle the urban noise.

One monk who had accompanied them even fell sick and they came back. One of them said that there are people from the village who have gone to cities and even abroad and are making a good living but she would love to live and die here in her small yet peaceful living in Kibber.

After a delightful conversation, we left for Kaza. We ate and had a good sleep. The lights in my room were too low and didn’t suit my eyes. I had a terrible headache and just slept with a hope to be not sick in the morning

June 25, 2018

My Spiti Saga – II

Historically, Spiti Valley has been a border area, even the name in Tibetian means ‘the middle land’, basically land between India and Tibet. Spiti has similar topography to that of Tibetian Autonomous Region and Ladakh.
I hope you enjoy this second post in my series on Spiti & get to learn more about the place.

After a healthy breakfast and packed lunch, we left for Lari Caves. At these caves primarily monks meditated. Inside the caves, there are stupas of monks who meditated here. There is also an idol for the safety of these stupas.

As we reached the base of the Caves, our guide, Durgen said ‘The climb might not be easy but let us try to enjoy it, together’ He had my heart at that moment. The climb was not easy as Durgen had mentioned, as the terrain was loose, with fine rocks and barely a path to walk on. But there was distant sound of the stream and breathtaking landscape that kept me going.

Few minutes in the walk and there was a difficult patch to cross. The path was narrow and one wrong step would mean a good fall. I crossed and few did too, I turned back and saw people struggling. I went back to help.

One person’s fear spread to the rest of the group and a few of us helped them all to walk through. But my big friend Rejo got stuck. I went to help him but he slipped. The path got lost and fine rocks started rolling, looking like a landslide. He glided down almost and luckily caught hold on a pipe. One of us helped him come up and walk it through. Now there was no path to walk on and I saw Sir approaching.

Sir tried but he got stuck in the same place where Rejo did. Sir has a bad knee. I and two others who were helping everybody till now stood there helpless. One of us went down near the pipe in case Sir glided till there too.

Padma and her friend came by, past Sir and stood with me. They were the owners of the home where we were staying and were accompanying us as they wished to do Pooja at the caves. Her friend went a bit ahead but Padma stayed with me.

Sir was still stuck and there came a suggestion for him to go back and sit there until we returned from the caves. Padma asked me what is happening, I told her that our Sir is stuck and might not be able to complete the climb.

‘No, after coming till here and missing the caves, I won’t let that happen’ she called her friend and within the next few minutes both of them took big stones from around and carved a path for Sir to walk on.

As I walked with Padma for a while, I figured she and her friend had come from this route for the first time, they had taken the route near the stream always which is steeper and had zero experience of making a path as they just did.

I was in complete awe for all three of them, Padma, her friend, and Sir. Even when Sir was stuck he didn’t think of heading back, people asked him to but he didn’t move. He always says that ‘world takes care of me’ and I saw it happening for the first time. Almost magically, he was out of a dangerous situation!

There were a few more patches ahead but we all managed to reach the Caves. We sat inside the caves as Durgen spoke about the caves, Buddhism in general and answered our queries while Padma served us all some tea and biscuits after the Pooja.

IMG_20180525_161748437 — Selfie with Durgen, I wish I took one with Padma too, though evidently, I am bad at selfies!

We stepped out and Sir gave us time to eat our packed lunch. After which, I picked a corner where I could only hear the stream and sat there quietly. I registered how amazing a human Padma is and tried to think if I was in her position would I ever have the heart to do so, be so kind, be so helpful. I barely knew Padma but her warmth as a person touched my soul.

Being inspired by Padma I gave in more efforts to help on the walk down. Some steep patches made it harder for people with a fear of heights and hence I carried bottles, bags, whatever to ease the walk down.

On our way to the Tabo Monastery, we saw some petra glyphs. A lot of them are being studied by researchers to understand what they tried to depict. I could only point out a few ibex and human figures.

I could spot the human figure, could you?

We reached Tabo Monastery, also referred to as the ‘Ajanta of Himalayas’. The monastery is famous for murals and striking stucco sculptures. The contrast between simple mud exterior and the fabulously detailed interior is why Tabo Monastery is a must visit.

Once we were back Sir gave us time to do what we wanted for a few hours as it was very evident that Lari had exhausted everyone. I had time in hand, a village around me, I just had to go and explore. I didn’t wish to go alone as I suck at roads.

Abhishek, my junior from college agreed to come with me. He is as bad with roads but he said we will figure it out. We stepped out and I thanked him for accompanying me when even I didn’t know where I am heading.

We were walking in the village as I said Juley to a lady. She greeted back. Her name was Anju Bota, I got talking to her a bit and asked her if I could see her home. She agreed and her kid took us in. We walked into a beautiful home with colorful carpets, curtains, and beddings.

Traditionally at least in the Buddhism followed in Tabo village, girls are not given family property. And since, Anju is the only child; her husband gets the property but has to stay with her family like what we understand as ghar-jamai.

Her husband and her mother were out working. She was also working with the cattle until she came across us. She and her husband are both educated and can take up a job as well but wish to work on this family land.

IMG-20180609-WA0004 — Thank You, Abhishek for capturing this moment.

After conversing and taking some adorable pictures of her kid we left. On the way back I imagined what a wonderful life Anju has, almost dreamlike. imagine living a life in a small cozy house in the mountains with your husband, kid and even your mother, oh wow! I wonder if she thought about it the same way!

As we reached our homestay, I thanked Abhishek again. I was strolling around and got talking to the owner of our homestay Amir, a civil engineer. He and his family own both homestays we were staying in and it was his brain behind the structure of them.

It was the land of his forefathers which was given to him. He divided the land part for farming and another part, especially for homestays. He had traveled and learned what hikers, trekkers, tourists wish for in a homestay or a hotel. He has tried his best to combine homestay and hotel features for a pleasant stay experience.

He then took me to their old home which was just next door where the entire family actually stays. His mother was cooking our dinner as we entered. We were a lot to be fed so some food was also being cooked here. She was happy to see me and asked for tea, I politely denied. Amir took me in to show the house.

The structure was similar to what I had just seen at Anju’s house. However, the color scheme of this wasn’t as bright and well done. It did look like they don’t really stay here. Only Amir’s mother’s room looked well kept. I saw their prayer room and it was magical. I sat there quietly for a while.

It was time for me to return to our dining area for soup and session with Sir. I told his mother that her room was pretty and the house, in general, was really beautiful. I and Amir then headed to the dining area.

The mystery of the luxury at the homestay was solved. Sir resolved other questions about everything we saw that day. After which we had dinner and a comfortable sleep. Only if I knew about what was in store next day I would have eaten more and slept earlier.

June 20, 2018

My Spiti Saga – I

In the north eastern corner of the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh dwells Spiti Valley. To the east of Spiti Valley is Tibet, Ladakh is to the north while Chamba and Kullu districts of Himachal Pradesh lie to the south and west.
This is my account about Spiti, I hope you enjoy reading this series, get to know the place a little better and perhaps have something to take back too.

As I hardly had any friends coming for this trip, it meant higher chances of building bonds and I was all up for it. Yet, I felt a little nervous and a little excited as I hopped in the train.

It was more than a day’s travel from Bandra Terminus to Kalka. We reached in the evening, ate and slept. Next morning we left for Sangla in two buses. The shades in the sky, the changing terrain was all worth to stay awake on the long bus ride. It was around sunset when we reached Sangla.

After being briefed for the next day we had dinner and got some time to walk around. The moon lit road was perfect for a peaceful walk. I and a friend headed out. We had seen the stream on our way and wished to go near it, however couldn’t find the way.

We decided to try to listen to the stream and so picked a spot and stood there quietly. The sound of the stream from a distance became more soulful with calming breeze and smiling moon. After a while we headed back to our rooms. The serenity of the moment stayed in me, I hadn’t felt that beautiful in a long time. But I decided to do something more.

I never talk to my college professor with whom I travel, because of various reasons, mainly because I don’t feel knowledgeable enough to begin a conversation with him and that I never have the courage to do so. But, I decided to change that. I bundled up courage and walked to his room.

‘Sir,’ I knocked his door. ‘It is open, come in.’ he replied.

‘Sir, thank you. I wish to say thank you.’

‘For what’

‘For letting me come for this camp. The moonlight walk was beautiful. I am just grateful to be here. Thank You’

Then I saw the rarest sight ever, he smiled. He gave a smile to me. I had tears in my eyes, I fumbled a thank you and left. I rushed to the washroom in my room and wept. I never felt so happy before. In that moment I knew that there was much more joy awaiting me in the entire trip and I need to be prepared.

I got out, scribbled in my book for a while and slept. Next day we left for Chitkul at 4:30am. We reached this last village before Tibet around 5am. It was a delight to see the quite village next to Baspa River in the backdrop of giant mountains.

Sir took us near the river and asked us to spend some time alone. All my preparations from last night went in vain. The flowing river, the steady mountains, the chirping birds, the colorful pebbles, I was so full of joy that it had to flow out through my eyes.

IMG_3574_1529121253003 — Thank You Abhishek Vidhate for clicking this picture

I sat there and opened up to Baspa, about my life struggles, about last night, all about Maa, about everything I had in my head and heart, it was so serene receiving responses from the river in various ways. I felt so much lighter after this, I could totally fly!

Time is never enough when I begin talking to the river. Half-heartedly I followed everyone into the village. We saw the Buddhist temple but it was closed. The deity is related to Deity of Gangotri and the pundits had taken it to the Deity of Gangotri.

We saw another small temple but it was closed too as the Pandit had gone out. We saw the structures of both the temples in awe and left to our vehicles. On the way back a lady sat outside her stable and looked at us in wonder.

As I passed her, I smiled and said Juley (hello)! She smiled back. She belonged to one of the first families that dwelled in Chitkul. There were only five families here when she was a kid and now there are over seventy. She told me that the place has changed significantly but not the people.

There was a friend ahead of me as I stood talking to this lady. I saw her take a right. After my warm conversation I went to the turn and saw two buses, recognized them as our buses and waited there. By this time the quite city of Chitkul had awaken. There were people all over, the lady I talked to, had left to graze her cattle, tourists had also started to move around, I couldn’t see a known face, and I panicked.

I went to the buses again to realize they weren’t our buses, I froze completely. My worst nightmare had come true. I stood there blank trying to gulp the truth of being lost. I was about to cry feeling extremely sad and stupid.

I finally saw a known face waving at me, it was Sandesh Dada, and I rushed towards him.

‘Is Sir angry? Will I be punished?’

‘I don’t know, walk fast’ he replied

We reached where the buses were. All were inside the bus waiting for me. Sir was about to leave in search for me. He caught my hand and I managed to fumble a few words like-I was here only, I am…’ Dada said ‘she was right here Sir at the turn’. Sir saw my face that was about to cry, so he gave me a knock on my head asked me to be careful and let go.

I got in the bus, curled up in my seat and tried to breathe in everything. I saw the mountains pass by, saw Baspa flow through, saw clouds, bright meadows and so with such ease I calmed down.

We reached Nako around afternoon and headed to the monastery. I have been to many monasteries before and Nako is surely the one in a real bad shape. Nako monastery is a testimony of well-developed Vajrayana Buddhist iconography in India.

However very difficult to understand figures in the condition it is now. The paintings on the walls are ruined, many structures are lost. There is a board outside that gives details of the monastery but not all of it is seen. The monk we met didn’t allow us to take pictures as well.

He did tell us that funding is an issue and that the monastery got ruined with an earthquake a while ago but no real help was received. We wished to click pictures and spread the word about the state but he was bounded by rules and didn’t allow us to click.

After we had seen the entire monastery he headed in and got us all postcards. He said I couldn’t allow you to click pictures but I can give you some.

We had postcards in our hand as we headed to Nako Lake. It is said that the lake attracts boating in summers, and when frozen in winters, attracts ice skating. However, when we saw the lake, it looked more like a pond. There wasn’t enough water with algae layer forming on top.

We left from Nako to reach Tabo late in the evening. We were going to be in a homestay and I was excited. Prior home stay experience went back to Nhatang valley in Sikkim in a small, cosy place with delightful food!

When we reached we entered a huge bungalow. We entered the spacious dining area with small dining tables. We had dinner after which all girls were headed to another place. This time we entered an even bigger bungalow.

It was only two of us in one huge room. I was shocked to the core looking at the luxury of this home stay. I slept that night on a bed which could fit me four times! I got up with zeal to know the reason behind such luxury at a home stay.

June 16, 2018

‘We sailed through’

‘We were stuck’ can be three words that probably define what happened on my trip to Ratnagiri. ‘We sailed through’ are three words that precisely tell the full story.

As planned we leave on Friday night in two cars to Ratnagiri to cover maximum sea forts. We have breakfast on the way and reach the first fort on list, Ambolgadh. We explore the fort and come back to see one tyre of our car flat. We change it with a spare tyre we had and move on.

I was sipping water when I see a mud storm in front of me and after we stopped I see our second car extremely off road to the left. We all run towards the car. Everyone, trying to see if all are alright. Luckily everyone was fine, except the car.

There was only one person with a wound near his brow. We made him wash it and apply some cream. The car was amidst rocks, we had to take it back on road. But when we started the car we realized there was a bad oil leakage. Hence, we pushed the car and got it back on road.

A man approached us and looked at the car. He told us that probably by mistake the driver put the car off with the key but due to power steering the car kept going to the left. He said that he experienced similar issue with power steering but not to so much effect as his car was at low speed. He lived in a bungalow across the street, he asked us to sit in shade, have some water and think what to do next.

As we all sat in shade, some started to call emergency numbers, some tried to google and call nearby garages and some did the most important thing of the moment, lighten the mood. In the next few hours I realized why the group I travel with is the best.

We figured that there is no garage nearby. Either a mechanic would have to come here or we would have to tow our vehicle 40km to Ratnagiri. Few of us worked on finding garages and mechanics and others on ideas of how we could tow the vehicle.

The beauty of this moment I realized later was that none of us played the blame-game. No one pointed fingers on anyone saying it was the fault of one causing the group. No one wailed and cribbed about what had happened. Instead everyone was trying to lighten each other’s mood. And lunch was on no one’s mind.

We borrowed ropes from the village and few kept searching a mechanic. We tied the ropes to both cars and were all set to tow the vehicle. After a little distance the rope broke, breaking all our hopes too. In this moment I could sense it that the mood had gone down. There was a kind of frustration in the air with some nervous smiles.

Since we weren’t receiving any help from calls we decided to go to the next village for help. To find a mechanic or a towing vehicle, any sort of help to get our vehicle to Ratnagiri. I, Sanish and two others leave in our car in search of help while others stay back in the shade outside the kind man’s house.

We ask for help to some relevant people but to no avail. We start asking help to anyone willing to help. This is when we meet a guy who works on generators. He gets ready to come and see the car and help us with whatever he can.

He follows our car on his bike while we ride back to where our vehicle was. On the ride back Sanish asks a question which leads to a beautiful conversation ‘What do you think was the purpose of what happened?’ Thanks to this conversation I was finally able to register in my mind the last few hours.

I have taken a leap of faith leaving my job and enrolling for my masters. I don’t know if this masters is going to lead me to something good in life or just waste my years. I don’t know how difficult it is going to get. And for me therefore the purpose of all that happened was to show me the depth of difficulty I am about to face.

We reach the vehicle and the guy checks it and tells us that we need an oil filter and oil to fix this car enough to ride it to Ratnagiri. He might have the oil filter but we would have to go and buy oil. If he doesn’t have the oil filter we might have to go Ratnagiri to buy the oil filter.

Luckily he finds the oil filter and we get the oil. He fixes it for us and we ride to Ratnagiri. We find a place to sleep. Everyone takes bath turn by turn while I sit in one corner and jot down pointers of the day. We all doze off after a while.

Next morning we give the car to Maruti Showroom to work on it. They say that it would take until evening for them to give us the vehicle back. We use the time and explore Ratnadurg fort and also visit an aquarium on the way. We also get to time to have a calm evening walk on the streets of Ratnagiri which had delight of its own!

We come back to our car and finally begin the ride back home. Just when we thought all challenges were done the tyre of their car punctures. We get it fixed and move on with a hope that the ride till home is smooth.

It wasn’t the usual trek that we have had instead it was the most unusual trip we all have had. It was a good learning experience I would say as I learned at least a bit of the big complex structure of a car. Just as ‘we sailed through’ victorious from this trip I hope I sail through with my masters too!

May 13, 2018

Valley of Vigor

‘I kept my bag aside, laid back on a rock, closed my eyes and heard only the stream on my left. In the shade of a huge rock and a little breeze from trees I couldn’t see, I spent a few moments with just the sound of the stream echoing the happiness in my soul.’

We will come to this beautiful moment soon which occurred during my recent adventure to Sandhan Valley. It is located in Igatpuri region of Maharashtra. Unlike my other trek experiences so far in Maharashtra this one was very different in many ways. Basic being that it isn’t a climb, it is only descending in the valley of shadows, and yes that’s what it is called.

My usual trek partner cousin – Sanish, wasn’t free this weekend when this trip was planned. In my head I knew I wouldn’t go without him, though my mom thought it was stupid to think so, I knew I wouldn’t go. He had some work pressure which I was well aware of and hence full week I had spent time to convince my mind that I won’t be travelling this weekend.

And then in the afternoon of the night we were supposed to leave I tried my luck and called him for a final yes or no and to my utter disbelief he said yes, yes he can make it! There was no bound to my joy as I was being blessed with a travel I had convinced myself of missing out!

I could see how tensed Sanish was though he tried his best to hide it. I knew what all was at stake for this trek to happen. I somehow wanted to fast forward the night and get to the time we start walking in the wild because I know nothing bothers us both once nature elopes us.

Next morning after breakfast we started the trek. If anything like what they call paradise exists then the first part of Sandhan Valley is how I feel the entrance of this paradise would look like. Holding us tight from both sides are huge rock structures, stone path in the middle with a few trees and the soothing stream waving at us every now and then.

Since I was ahead in the group I got time to search my spot and relax. Twice I found the perfect place to just sit back and look at the mountains. First, it was me and Sanish, where we lied down on a flat rock and looked up at the beauty of the huge rocks above us. And the second one was when I found a rock cut like a small chair for me to completely relax with my legs up.

We walked and reached a water patch where there was no way but to walk through the water. And so the whole team work begins. Everyone packs shoes and makes a trail to pass bags.

There were tall guys in our group who went in the water and it reached their hip. I thought I will be swimming this through or since I don’t know how to swim, perhaps just drown! I wasn’t of any use in the whole passing the bag trail thanks to my height. But there was water in front of me, I couldn’t resist and I stepped in.

The water was above my chest. I got some grip on my legs and stood still. The water felt cold and I looked up. The huge rock mountains on both sides made a curve. It felt like looking in a mirror as they reflected my smile.

This bag task was almost done, after a while we all wore our shoes and began to walk again. We then reached the patch where we had to rappel down. This time around, the rappelling was very different.

Unlike how I could see the end of my rappel in AMK and in Bhairavgadh (Moroshi), here I couldn’t. There was a curve to the rock. And to my surprise, perhaps because I was happy high with the water patch I rappelled at ease and with speed. Sometimes your body surprises you and it’s a beautiful feeling!

After being overjoyed with two unique experiences it was time to calm down and this is when I relaxed beside the stream. Post which we had lunch and began to walk down again. There were a few difficult rock patches where we had to do the same ‘pass the bag first and then go down’ game but we did it all quick and had only to walk until we reached the village.

IMG_20180421_134737477_TOP — **Nilesh** and his friends helped us find our way down. Sadly expected money from us in return though we provided food. This gave me reassurance about the Masters I have enrolled myself into and the work I wish to do in future. Hopefully I help make some difference to our society.

We reached around 7 pm and there was quite some time before we all dozed off. I was missing my usual talkative buddy with whom such a situation would be ideal to talk our hearts out. I felt silly now that I didn’t make enough efforts to talk the people I was with. But none the less I learned something new.

I learned how to marinate chicken. Since my mom doesn’t cook non vegetarian food, I took this as an opportunity and I am so happy I didn’t really goof it up much. I hope I try it once before the memory of learning how to do it washes off.

Next morning as planned we got up, sipped some tea and got into our vehicles to Asangaon station. The ride was about singing all bad songs with silly lyrics one could think of. It was one hilarious ride. And like all good treks that end with food, this one did too. We hadn’t had breakfast, so this one ended with hot and spicy Samosas!

I haven’t mentioned it much but I did miss more than a few people.
This has made me realize that I should have a post with profiles of people I trek with.

Stay tuned to get introduced to all my amazing trek mates.
Also don’t forget to check Insta @nisha_navgire for pics with poems on this trek!

April 28, 2018

A week with Maa

“I am so happy you are home,” Mom smiled.

“Yeah, me too”

“No seriously, I haven’t felt so happy in a while,” Mom embraced me.

After this, I did a happy dance in my head. And dug a hole where I buried all my worries of work, my guilt of not doing anything at all for five days and danced again!

My work got the best out of me. On the desk I gave the best and as a person I grew on a different level, doing things I wished to do for years like weekly blogging, monthly trekking etc.

But having said and done the above, I didn’t relax at all. For the past eight months, I have been working, trekking or writing my blog. I had not given a day to just do nothing and be with Maa. But these five days at home I did that.

I watched TV with Maa, cooked with her, cleaned the house, talked, ate and slept. I did nothing else. By the end of these five days there was so much refreshed energy in me. And along the week there was a moment which made me realize a few things.

This moment occurred when we were watching FRIENDS on TV. I and Maa are enjoying it when I ask mom her favourite character on the show.

“I love Phoebe and Joey. Both are easy going, different and fun. They always seem to be living life at their own terms in a little world of their own.”

We talked about the show, the characters, and episode, ate lunch and decided to have a nap. My mind couldn’t be at rest, it was trying to make sense why Mom related to the characters she did. Only to realize that she never lived a life on her own terms and almost sixty years of her existence she had only lived for others.

She always wished to be home with me and my sister but she had to work. When finally she retired and wished to spend time with us, my sister had left for higher studies, and I had got a job to be busy with. I perhaps longed for this week at home with her only to relax but Maa wished to live this week, this way, forever.

This realization made think of ways, to make the most of the time with her. I talked to her about her childhood, made tea for her, watched all her stupid serials and tried to keep the house clean. I felt happy doing all this and felt silly to have not done so before.

Maa never asked me for this week because she knew the importance of my work. I didn’t think of spending a week this way because I suck at understanding people and situations. But I feel blessed that this happened and that I did have a week of nothingness but just me and Maa.

I think it is clear what I wish you do after reading this or if nothing else, please think. Think about the two people because of whom you exist. Remember as you grow, they age. They might expect, they won’t express, but you should gift them the most important thing, time.

April 15, 2018

Hello Insta!

My Instagram is all of people I know. These are people my age, which is around twenty. I know them from school, college etc. I do not follow any celebs, a few bloggers, travel accounts and that’s it. So my Insta feed is mostly about the life of people my age. But I do not relate to all that I see.

The crux of maximum feed that I see is this virtual conformation. People want to portray a life that someone would see and wish to have. Rarely people show the side that is vulnerable and real. And I can totally understand this.

We were the generation who saw the transformation from real to virtual self. Hence this weird conflict of understanding our true self and problem of portraying the ‘real me’ in the world of filters!

A part of me I don’t express online is the one that isn’t into food. I eat because I have to. There isn’t any other way. But the majority that I see love food. I have an issue understanding this part of me because I can’t see someone going through something similar.

I am learning to love food but I can’t see someone sailing in the same boat.

However I like when I see people do what they love. From bakery to biking, from hiking to designing, and so much more. It is so inspiring to see people put in efforts to keep doing and getting good at things of their interest. It helps me push my limits too.

I do not drink anything but my Breezer Cranberry and I don’t smoke anything at all. Half of the weekend feeds and even a few weekday feeds is about smoking up and being drunk dead somewhere. This is where I struggle to relate to people, I somewhere in this aspect don’t even wish to try.

The majority that inspire me the most are the ones who stand up for something they truly believe in. I am scared to give an opinion on some trending topic because of the trash that people can give you online.

But in spite having this same fear there are people in my feed who get up and stand up for what they believe in. I can do this in the real world, I’ll hopefully do it in the virtual world soon.

I am a morning person. And in three years of college I didn’t meet a single person in any project group who ever loved working in the morning like I do. I really feel this is like a problem with me and not people my age.

This is what I got from my Instagram feed, what does your feed tell you?
DM me @nishanavgire and let me know!

April 8, 2018

A Tantalizing Trek Tale

I love bike rides. It has a different charm. I and my usual bike partner cousin were on a roll as we sang through the whole drive. From Sukhvinder’s “Oh ho oh ho” to “O mere dil k chein” our playlist had a smooth ride with our bullet.

We finally parked our bikes at 4am and were given an hour before we left for the trek. Almost all as expected dozed off. I looked at my friend and in a blink we knew what we were up to next.

We both did our own bit of research and found the best place to lie down and star gaze. The view was mesmerizing. It was last in October that we star gazed. We both have less understanding of the stars but same awe for their existence.

Eyes up at the sky, mind drowned in thoughts, without realizing I went into the world of stars. What a beautiful nap and dream it was !

It was dark, we all had torches and a few were ahead leading the way. As we walked a bit ahead we spotted a Night Jar. It looked stunning. A musical night bike ride, soulful star gazing with a nap and then the Night Jar, this trek surely had the best start!

The kind of trekking I have done and the average experience of the group I go with is quite good. We use harness and equipment only when it is really essential. Bhairavgadh (Maroshi) is one where we decided we will use it and hence a suggestion to anyone who is reading this and would wish to go, kindly take all safety measurements.

There were two people ahead who climbed the harness part. When I reached I couldn’t find them. I thought they must have gone ahead so I climbed all the steps and reached the top. I shouted their names but no avail. I was scared for minute.

People down said they have come up. There is no other way than these stairs, where have they gone then? I didn’t wish to go right at the top of the fort all alone so I climbed back down.

I saw that my group still hadn’t got all members up the harness. I decided to walk up again and find my two mates. I climbed up the stairs again, shouted their names but couldn’t locate them. More scared than before I climbed down again to get someone with me to find them.

I and a friend climbed up again and finally met the two. We saw the top most part of the fort and four of us began our journey down. As we did our entire group was up by the harness. We four were asked to climb up again for a group picture at the top of the fort. We hesitated a bit and then finally gave in.

This is my first ever trek saga where I got bored of a fort. Not because it was boring, because I climbed it a total of four times. However, the time spend at the top of the fort was worth it. And no don’t get me wrong, the fort is not at all boring. It is full of adventure and the scenic view is class but just make sure you climb up only once!

When I was waiting for my turn to rappel it down, the sun was right above my head and I was sweating like a pig. I had bought all my sun protection things, caps, glares, scarfs etc. It all lay in my bag down which I could reach only after rappelling. And there were a few people who were yet to go down before it were my chance.

Melting in the heat I realized that how we all have the necessary resources to face a storm in life. But it is locked up in the depths of our hearts and by the time we find it we have lost it to the storm. Let us therefore always be prepared for a storm and never let it win over us.

For me personally climbing up a mountain is easy as compared to walking down. This is because when I am climbing up, it is all up to me where I set my feet to head up. When I have to get down, it is not so easy. And this becomes a tad more difficult when I have to rappel it down.

The first step is the most difficult. And during rappelling especially for the first step my feet felt heavier than an elephant! I let go of this stupid feet thoughts and imagining why my feet is feeling heavy and rappelled down. And to my own surprise I did well.

Almost all of us were exhausted and so were our water resources. To our surprise an old man appeared out of nowhere guided us to a water body and disappeared again. Lord works in his own way and this old man proved that to me.

We all drank water to our hearts’ content and filled bottles before we left. We had lunch in the middle of the jungle and started to walk down. I wished to reach our bikes before the heat killed me and walked down as swiftly as I could.

I and two of my friends reached down without taking many water or shade stops and hence reached a good 45mins before the rest. This made me regain the lost energy. I was happy with the whole trek and didn’t expect much more but life is about surprises. And a kala-khatta gola in the crazy heat ended my thrilling trek on a high note!

March 31, 2018

A Sweet-Sour Trip

“Live the moment for the moment,” Michael Jordon. I am not so fond of starting write ups with quotes but this one explains what I wish to convey here.

I like things planned and it freaks me out when a plan doesn’t work. And this is exactly why life keeps freaking me out every now and then. From the time I have started trekking I have had this part of me challenged.

I do not trek with a proper trekkers group that makes profits as well. We are all individuals who love to trek and plan stuff for this love and create memories. However, it isn’t so easy when put to practice and there are failures of plans and other issues we face.

This trek was one such experience. Up until we started the travel I wasn’t sure if this would happen. But it did, and oh so marvellously! The plan started when 10+ people on board and ended with only four people actually doing it.

Rajgadh is one of the forts that brags about how had Shivaji lived here the longest. And when you see how huge the structure is, it is so believable. I have been to a few forts and this is one where I saw the maximum remains of the structure. I couldn’t help but keep imagining about the life lived here.

The moment I can’t forget and it still boils me within is when I saw these group of idiots feeding some monkeys. I don’t believe in ghosts but if I become one, the person who started feeding the monkeys in first place and made it all cool will suffer. They are wild animals not meant to be fed by humans! It became worse when a lady there forced a dog to shoo them away.

Why are we humans so selfish? We feed the monkeys for our own joy. We use the dog then to shoo them away, why? Live and let live isn’t all so hard, is it? I cringe about this moment as I write it now. And if you are reading this, kindly go and google how to behave with the wild and not treat them as your own property!

We were heading down to our vehicle when an old lady selling buttermilk caught our attention. One of us wished to have and so we did. Just few steps down there was an old lady selling lemon juice and oh boy, nimbu paani is pure joy to me. I walked ahead, couldn’t resist and walked back again. We all had it and it was so peaceful.

Just before reaching our vehicle we saw someone sell sugarcane juice, one of us wished to drink it and so we all did. This is what I so truly believe is living the moment, for the moment. We didn’t think of the reaction that these three things might cause in our stomach or any random thoughts as such and just did what made us happy. I wish to live a life as such, where I find joy in each moment!

From the plan to execution, to the moments lived in this trip, it was entirely a sweet-sour experience. I liked how it made me realize that life isn’t about planning but living what’s executed.

March 24, 2018